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- perrupa, on 10/12/2007, -2/+26You should buy Taiyo Yuden* ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taiyo_Yuden ).
/Close Thread
*rebranded or otherwise - P3ST4, on 10/12/2007, -1/+16Verbatim are hailed as the best brand to buy. They are also popular because they are reasonably cheap. I own Ritek disks and have never had a problem, but from this site I guess they consider it 2nd or 3rd class. Hmm. I have never had a coaster, and have given my DVD's out to many people and have not gotten any complaints about playback issues. Ritek is veryyyy cheap, and from personal experience, very reliable.
I have used TDK DVD's and those are great too, but I think Verbatim and Ritek has them beat.
I hear Taiyo Yuden is nice too, but I have never bought their disks. I'll stick with Verbatim or Ritek disks. - unknownsoldierX, on 10/12/2007, -0/+13Taiyo Yuden is considered #1 among most burning enthusiasts. Generally Verbatim is regarded as a close second. TY media is too expensive most of the time.
I've used Verbatim for years, and they even turned out to be re-branded TY discs a couple times. - KiTchMe, on 10/12/2007, -2/+14nothing but Taiyo Yuden
- inactive, on 10/12/2007, -1/+12"Lesson learned."
When you burned the discs, did you do a "disc verify" immediately afterwards? - hansamurai, on 10/12/2007, -0/+10Taiyo Yuden is the best. The guide you linked to is the best source out there. Personally, I mostly use Verbatim as they're very good and regularly on sale at Newegg.
- DrakeTheRedEye, on 10/12/2007, -1/+10Verbatim (Mitsubishi) Digital Movie DVD-R. I've used them for 2 years now on my NEC drive, and have never had any problems.
(look like old movie reels) - IronChef, on 10/12/2007, -0/+7Make sure they are Sony's Made in Japan (identified by a hexagon foam spacer not round and check the label "Made in Japan"). The DVD -R Sony's Made in Japan are Taiyo Yuden. You have to go through the stacks to look for the hexagon foam spacer (Made in Japan) because there are Sony Made in Taiwan too. I find these on sale at Staples quite often but you have to dig through the stacks. The guy at Staples didn't even know this while I was digging through the stacks. I have bought them from Staples as low as 12 bucks for 50 and buy all the Made in Japans. Taiyo Yuden for cheap.
- bat-21, on 10/12/2007, -1/+8Better list at http://www.videohelp.com/dvdmedia
- coolusername, on 10/12/2007, -2/+9I started paying closer attention to this a couple of years back after I got my Plextor PX-708A. Great burner, but it hates low quality media. I was watching a movie one day and it started skipping so I ran a scan of the disc using DVD Info Pro. The disc was totally hosed. I got the Media ID of the disc and found out that my "Memorex" media was actually made by CMC. No wonder nearly 50% of my discs didn't pass a scan. Lesson learned.
- Blueshirts9, on 10/12/2007, -4/+11nice usage of the word hosed
- code_of_life, on 10/12/2007, -0/+7Dang, didnt know my Ritek discs my be "3RD CLASS MEDIA"
Better start paying more attention to the media ID. - Kokichi, on 10/12/2007, -0/+7As a packrat of anime, cartoon shows, TV shows, Netflix DVD rips, and just about everything else you can imagine, I've found that Verbatim and TDK have never given me problems. Be VERY WARY of Phillips DVDs, however. I had burnt about 30 movies and let friends borrow them when they ALL reported problems with them. I bought TDK and reburnt some and now they play fine. Note that it also might be my software (I had wiped my computer before I had started burning with Phillips DVDs), but I've gotten all the drivers, and DVD Shrink / Nero work just fine.
- inactive, on 10/12/2007, -0/+6Huge mistake. I used the Chinese GQ brand discs for a while until the cheap foil layer they use on top started chipping off, making my discs useless. They are good if you need them as quick throwaway discs, but if you need to save info for any period of time I don't recommend you use them.
My brother bought a 100 pack spindle of GQ CD-Rs from Fry's (because they were $5.99) and I noticed that most of them had tiny little holes and "dents" on the top surface of the foil. If you had any data on those sectors you'd likely lose it. I quickly brought them in for a refund. The returns guy saw there was a problem and even said "damn, that's pretty crappy." To my surprise they had a whole bunch of returned spindles the next week to sell to suckers. - PhantomZmoove, on 10/12/2007, -0/+6I got some memorex 16x discs the other day for my memorex 8x drive, only to find out they were "incompatible" (wtf?) and it only records at 2.4x on them.
weak! - chrono13, on 10/12/2007, -0/+6This is one of the largest CD/DVD burning community sites on the net: http://www.videohelp.com/dvdmedia.php?order=Views/Popularity
That link is to a listing of all media sorted by number of views. User reviewed, voted and commented on. Makes for great research. You can quickly see which brands stack up.
This site is also a fantastic way to compare various software features, has how-to guides for almost everything you can image related to cd's, dvd's, and anything related to burning media. - LordSkywalker, on 10/12/2007, -0/+5TY's have worked for me.
- KaserPro, on 10/12/2007, -0/+5To be fair, CDs and DVD-R*s are not the best things for archive.
They are wonderfully vulnerable to light temperature, moisture and shock. The biggest killer is foil degradation. (the colored bit behind the label.) once that is scratched, game over. Scratches on the platter its self are fairly benign, as the laser is not focused on that part. (its like when you put things in fount of a pair of binoculars, things get a little dark and blurry, but you can still make out whats going on)
If you are going to archive onto dvds duplication is the key. If your compressing, make sure you split the resulting file into 20 meg pieces, (its big enough for relatively good sustained tranfur, but wont be physically that big on the disk), this means that if one part of the disk goes ***** up, you can find a working part on a separate disk.
The final thing, think about storage, a spindle or wallet just doesn't really cut it. jewlcases maybe big and clunky, but it stops stress related cracks on the foil. The other thing is keeping them in the dark and relatively temperature stable environment. - inactive, on 10/12/2007, -0/+5Basically what it comes down to is: Don't buy Chinese discs!! The worksmanship is usually cheap and shoddy, they cut corners whenever they can and they may be out of spec.
Tawianese media can give you mixed results, but you can't go wrong with Japanese discs. - andrewguy, on 10/12/2007, -2/+6I've gone through over 200+ Maxell DVD-R and never had any problems as well.
- CeeJayDK, on 10/12/2007, -0/+4I use Tuff Discs ( http://tuffdisc.com )
They use 1 class media , but gives them a special treatment to make them more UV light, dust and scratch resistant.
I just ID'd one of mine as a MCC003 from Mitsubishi. - keldawgyo, on 10/12/2007, -0/+4i've never had a problem with sony media at all..
the only sony product i've never had a problem with - toliman, on 10/12/2007, -0/+3the 20mb rar is good advice, you can also use quickpar to create 15% of PAR2 recovery files and split them over each DVD. PAR2 is great for large collections that could get messed up if theres a small scratch on the disc that ruins the whole integrity of the collection.
It is massive overkill for most applications, but if the data is meant to last a long time and its full of dozens of files that all need to be there in the end, i.e. photos, install files, multiple part files, music albums, archives, collections in general
PAR2 doesn't work miracles, it can only replace maybe 4-5 damaged 20mb files out of 40 (quickpar will tell you this), depending on the level of parity data stored in the PAR2 files. the other good advice in backups is setting up regular precautions, like splitting or copying the parity data onto separate, different discs, using separate physical storage media, all the usual tricks for job-altering/life-altering backups. - digjedi, on 10/12/2007, -1/+4I agree with one of the first rate DVDs being Verbatim - that's all I ever buy. I've used almost every brand you on the list - either by borrowing a couple of DVDs from work or having someone buy me some random brand as a x-mas or birthday gift - and the ONLY one that works 100% is Verbatim. What drives me nuts is some of the big known brand name products are nothing but crap - Memorex, Fuji, etc.
- netjd, on 10/12/2007, -0/+3I agree that MS often goes astray of standards, probably purposely to keep it's hold of the proprietary software market and influence developing standards. However, IMHO, I believe targeting the users of 'one crappy browser', as a web developer or designer, is just a good business based and marketing based decision considering IE enjoys 86% of the global market.
source:http://www.onestat.com/html/aboutus_pressbox40_browser_market_firefox_growing.html
Not liking MS or even bashing MS will not change that fact , at least not in the near future. - Zuhaib, on 10/12/2007, -3/+6I dont know if i really want to take advice from a site that states
"Site optimized for Internet Explorer and 1024x768 resolution"
Good information, just, they need to work on the site and make sure its 'optimized' for the standard of the web, not one crappy browser. - don2k381, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2Ricoh,TY, and verbatim are one of the best....dont know why ricoh is 2nd class..
what it seems like that this guy just put the more Famous brands as First class... - romman00, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2As a 5+ year reader of CDFreaks, I can tell you that this page is inaccurate. It is really impossible to put together a list that dictates what media is good and what media is bad. There are a few reasons for this, which are extraneous variables. These variables that influence burn quality include what brand of DVD burner you own, the firmware on that burner, and who has rebadged the media. Another variable is that some companies such as Memorex use different companies' media for a single speed of their media (i.e., half of their 16x discs may be made by Ritek and the other half of discs by CMC). This means that some Memorex 16x discs will work really well for some burners while the other half will have terrible quality burns.
Now, you may be wondering, "Then how do I tell what media I should buy?" Luckily, there is an answer to this. Goto http://www.videohelp.com/dvdmedia, and search for your specific dvd media there. This is the largest user-submitted database of dvd media reviews on the web, and is much more accurate than the website listed above. The reviews are split up by all of the variables above (burner used, firmware, original manufacturer, rebadger, etc) so you can see exactly how the type of media you are about to buy should perform. - sophiaperennis, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2I agree, Verbatim is close to perfect. Been using Verbatim DVD-Rs for a while now.
- xigxag, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2So, what is the point of all the media IDs and ratings if you can't find it until AFTER you have bought the discs?
- gamabunta, on 10/12/2007, -3/+5Taiyo Yuden is the way to go
- Dhalgren, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2These are the ones I buy:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817130992
Or, if you don't need Inkjet-Printable:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817130993
These are "1st Class" per this website and I would agree that I have had little trouble with them.
BTW, if you didn't know, the best way to burn a DVD that will play in the most players is to buy DVD+R and booktype as DVD-ROM. - badtz, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2TAIYO YUDEN. It's that simple! A touch expensive, but great!
- mattdr488, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2Those Black Friday Dynex $5 100 pack of DVD-R's are made by Mitsubishi and are rated as Class 1.
- sansculottes, on 10/12/2007, -1/+3@treelovinhippie
I bought 50 Ritek discs about a year ago, branded Ridata. Perhaps I got a bad batch or something, but they were absolutely horrible. About a quarter failed in burning, of which a quarter wouldn't read immediately after burning. Only about one in ten will read now. Additionally, DVD Identifier says they are RITEKG05, which this article lists as 2nd class.
I have been using Sony discs since then, and have been very happy with them. Not too expensive, either: $40 for 100 at Fry's, methinks. Disc Identifier identified them as SONYD21, first class. - duck_oil, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2Were you trying to play the dual layer discs in standalone DVD players? Some older players may not like dual layer discs.
- Dhalgren, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1Interesting. What I do works for me and what you do works for you... I suppose there's no reason to change what I'm doing until/if I start having issues. I will keep this in mind if I ever replace my drive as this may become an issue.
- Dhalgren, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1Those Tuff discs look interesting, but I need InkJet Printable myself...
- Dhalgren, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1"Conversely don't use the slowest either."
What logic are you basing this on? I have always burned at 4x and never had any problems. I would rather wait (normally just do other stuff while burning) than risk a coaster or read errors. Just so you know I 'm not trying to attack you I'm just wondering if this is something you came up with (6X is "safe enough" but you want the speed) or if you are basing it off of something else. - RyanChappell, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1Misinformation, perhaps, but thousands of people just realized, "oh *****, my ritek is 3rd class" and "oh you mean, the label doesn't mean everything" "you mean Sony, Fuji, Memorex all sell media made by other companies."
This in a way is the holy grail of dvd media information and I still refer to it, even if it is out of date! - doon, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1TY = 0 coasters.
- SanTe, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1@ PhantomZmoove & mrFREEZE
The same thing happened to me. I have a Sony DRU-710A 8x DVD burner. Had been using 8x Memorex DVD-R media for a couple of years until they replaced it with 16x media and stopped selling 8x. My drive wouldn't recognize the 16x media. Solution was to hit Sony's web site and grab the latest firmware update for the drive. Problem solved, and I got a free boost to 12x burning speed on 16x media with the new firmware. :)
DVD burner firmware includes a database of media currently on the market so the drive can adjust its settings to best match the media that is inserted. My drive's original firmware didn't include the new 16x media because 16x media didn't exist yet. New firmware releases often have updated media databases.
The only downside to my firmware upgrade was that the drive now has trouble playing and/or ripping CDs. Probably just a bug in the new firmware but I can't help but wonder if it was intentional. Sony *is* in the music business after all... I may just throw my TDK CD-RW back into my case for playing/ripping CDs. - RyanChappell, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1I like the url for this redirect to the same site!
http://www.nomorecoasters.com - jmdajr, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1VERY USEFUL!
I will be more mindful from now on, - ucg1, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1@PhantomZmoove
I've been using Memorex for a while with my NEC drive. Everything was going fine until I got new discs that looked different (maybe they changed the manuafacturer). The drive would not burn on these discs until I upgraded the firmware. Everything was fine after the firmware was upgraded, though. May want to try that with your drive. - intense321, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1These are all for single layer media! Does anyone have the data for DL media? I haven't used single layer in over a year now.
- inactive, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1I've gone through many DVD discs and I have some thoughts.
Only use DVD+R, it has better error correction and quality control.
I've had good luck with TDK but you have to experiment for what works with your burner.
Also don't burn at the fastest speed possible. Conversely don't use the slowest either. I usually go one step down. My burner does 8x max so I burn at 6x. - inactive, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1Here's some charts showing the difference between high speed and low speed burning
http://club.cdfreaks.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69698
Apparently, the drives just aren't "tuned" to do well at extremely low speed.
I've read this elsewhere but can't find it right now. I believe that 6x is the best speed. I have even had discs that say on the label "some burners may have compatablity issuses burnig from 1x - 4x" - coolusername, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1@mrFREEZE: Yeah, I started doing disc scans *immediately* after burning to get the burn quality ever since those memorex started skipping. (Not that it would matter so much since i'm extremely anal about dust and scratches. Discs belong in only one of two places: a DVD drive or a protective case.)
But anyway I think the real "Lesson Learned" is that some burners will burn CMC discs 100% flawless every time. Keeping in mind that the burn program can complete without error (i.e. no coaster), but if you scan the quality of the disc there can be significant read errors. Even if it's not flawless, only a couple of errors spaced out won't be noticeable if you are watching a movie. But if you burn a bunch of files for backup, your HDD crashes, then you try to copy all the files back you could have some real problems. So yes, it's a bit more complicate equation than can be solved by "just buy TY all the time". What is the purpose of the burn? What DVD burner do you have? What's on sale?
Cool, good discussion going and some great other links.... - anagami, on 07/02/2008, -0/+1thanks, great resource
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