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75 Comments
- nedzeve, on 10/10/2007, -0/+14Here's one step:
Walk away if you think the price they are asking is not fair. There is almost always a better deal out there. - ClOlD, on 10/10/2007, -2/+15I'm all for getting the best value, and though this guide helps get you through most of the muck, I can't agree with step #4.
"Go to the dealership you absolutely NEVER want to do business with. Nail down the details on the options -- go for "loaded," then whittle it down to find the approximate prices for each option. Make a detailed list with prices. Mark the options you must have and those can do without"
If you KNOW you're not going to do business with a dealer, I can't help but think it's somewhat ***** to make a point to waste his/her time just to get data to do business with someone else later. - vrp75, on 10/10/2007, -1/+13I'm saving this one for my next car.
- smacksaw, on 10/10/2007, -1/+8Bad guide. The best way to get a deal is to use Costco or check the ad vs. the invoice at MSN Autos or Edmunds. Also, if you are willing to drive places like Boston or Dallas you can get much better deals than most other states. Don't believe me? www.boston.com/cars
#1. Yes
#2. No, they won't do that unless you come in. You won't get an accurate price.
#3. Pick the dealer based upon who has the model you want in-stock. They will all sell for the same price. If it's a dealer trade, your deal is worse.
#4. Idiotic. That is what configurators are for on websites. If you're buying American, you have those option choices. Japanese cars mostly do not.
#5. Never pay more than invoice unless it's a rare car like a Porsche. Period. There is a dealer out there who doesn't care and makes it up on some other dope.
#6. WRONG. You don't need to bring the cheque with you - furthermore, unless you are getting a Mercedes (which don't have promo APR like a Toyota) you should finance at the dealer. They can get you financed through the manufacturer at a better APR than even a credit union. This is dumb because the writer insinuates that your price will increase if you can afford more. That is why you negotiate price before credit.
#7. No. Then they want to know VIN# and crap. Just make sure they cover you on a new purchase. They do.
#8. It doesn't matter when you go, but going late at night gives incentive to finish while early in the day is better if you are getting financed because more banks are open to push your deal through if there's a hitch.
#9. Salespeople don't like to split deals because it doesn't help their numbers or spifs.
#10. No. This isn't a ***** game. This isn't Johnny Carson and Carnac The Magnificent.
#11. That is what F&I is for, and if something is wrong, you can sue them. I've been messed up in F&I before and got $1000 for my trouble and it was their fault.
#12. Wrong again. This isn't a game. Walk out if you don't want to do business. Talk to a manager if you do. Don't walk out until you've spoken to the decision-maker. Make that person show you their screen, invoice, the way the numbers spec out.
#13. Buy the car anywhere. They're all slimeballs. The ones who aren't are non-commission and they don't deal.
FAIL - KamelJockey, on 10/10/2007, -1/+7And pay fool price?
- inactive, on 10/10/2007, -0/+6To do research...
- imbetterthanu, on 10/10/2007, -0/+6Get dropped off at the dealership? Why not wear a sign that says "yes, I am buying a car today." A friend of mine used to sell cars and he loved to see people get dropped off because he could call their bluff. He knew they didn't have a ride home unless they called someone -- something someone with the intent of purchasing a new car didn't want to do.
- KamelJockey, on 10/10/2007, -0/+5I wouldn't say that dealer financing is universally bad. I think the best way to do it is to get a pre-approved auto loan (like those Blank Check Auto Loans from Capital One). Then you go to the dealer and tell them you have such a loan. If you apply for their credit anyway, they will try to get you a loan that will beat the one that you have, because it is in their best interest to do so. Worst case scenario is they don't beat your loan and you use that instead.
- GLSmyth, on 10/10/2007, -0/+5Well, I'd say that the only rule you need is to know your price. A number of years ago I knew the car I wanted, and thanks to doing my research, I knew the price I was willing to pay. I went to the dealership and refused to go higher than the price I had set. I bought the car at my price, really ticking them off, which told me that I had done my job well.
- inactive, on 10/10/2007, -6/+10This guide really puts you in the driver's seat.
- GruntGrunt, on 10/10/2007, -4/+8When I find a car that I want, I bring a laptop to the dealership. I meet with the person who will be selling my car, then I hand them a pen and a piece of paper. I then head to their office go right ahead, close the door, tell them to come in when they have a reasonable number and then I do my work on the spot. If they come out with something that I don't approve of I send em right back inside.
Makes buying a car a whole lot easier for me. - SadMartigan, on 11/25/2008, -0/+4You're always being screwed, if you feel like it or not. Have you seen the prices you pay for decent new car, compared to the same model in the U.S?
- skyteria, on 10/10/2007, -1/+5But then you end up with a Saturn.
- Azulus, on 10/10/2007, -2/+5great advice there, I also highly recommend this article:
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/42962/article.html
It's a bit long but it involves a reporter going undercover as a car salesman at a normal dealership and a no-hassle dealership for a few weeks. If you don't feel like reading, the best and easiest thing you can do is use CarsDirect.com, the salespeople hate it supposedly.
(And a friend of mine just bought a 2007 accord a few months ago and the dealer was offering him 23k as their best deal. He checked Cars Direct and went in with their prices and ended up getting it for just over 19). - LAhazmat, on 10/10/2007, -0/+3OK Folks, Here's how to really score the best deal from a dealership:
1. Use the internet for all it's worth! Research, securing a pre-approved loan and negotiating can all be done using the internet.
Research using Edmunds.com and as well as car company web sites to put together your ride. Autotrader.com is a good tool as well.
2. All dealerships have Internet sales staff. Send your request to ALL the dealerships in your area for the make and model you choose. Make sure to nail down the exact options you require.
3. Try online banks like Capitalone.com If you have a good credit score you can secure a good interest rate. Dealerships know how to make a killing using their banks. Take this tactic away from them.
4. You have two options when negotiating. The first is to only use the internet and emails to do the dealing. The other and better way is to work the dealerships against each other using the phone. Make them GIVE you their price and LET THEM KNOW you are seeking prices elsewhere, if they don't want to play drop them. Don't waver on this! Be forceful, it will pay off! By doing the dealing away from the dealerships you take away their ability to gang up on you. Stay off their turf!
5. When you find the best deal let that dealer know that you plan to buy your car through them. Have them prep your car before you arrive. Let them know you are NOT interested in any extended warranties, paint coatings etc. This is another BIG money maker for dealerships and can be bought elsewhere for a lot cheaper.
OK, now go down and pick up your car. If you did the internet purchase correctly you should only be at the dealership no more then 15 minutes and saved a boat load of money!
Good Luck! - rarson, on 10/10/2007, -0/+3You can do that online. Besides, you're never going to get a straight price from a dealer without haggling with them.
- kingvik, on 10/10/2007, -0/+3I see what you did there.
- mt066, on 10/10/2007, -0/+3Every major car company displays the specs right on the website. You probably aren't looking on the right page.
- Sp4nk, on 10/10/2007, -3/+6In a nutshell, this guide basically says find the lowest price on the car you want, go to the dealership, and buy the vehicle. Stupid. Buried.
- saranagati, on 10/10/2007, -0/+3the invoice price that they show you isn't what they actually paid for the car, it's what they would pay if they didn't get discounts from the manufacturer. If you've done your math and figured out what kind of discounts they're getting, you can get the car below their posted invoice price (depending on the time of year too). Best way I found was to go to a few dealerships and when none of the salesmen would meet the price I wanted, I emailed all the online sales dept's within 100 miles to get the best deal. Ended up getting my car for 5% below the posted invoice price.
- tzon, on 10/10/2007, -0/+3VW Golf has been renamed VW Rabbit
- mrfunybuny, on 10/10/2007, -0/+21. Just about Everything you said for Europe is true in America. Check any Car manufacturers US site and you'll see a fixed price, that every1 knows. We don't care in the US, we don't want to pay the fixed price, we want it $1 above the dealers cost.
2. When a manufacturer has some special discounts, you can get those discounts no matter where you buy that car from. And guess what, we don't care, we still haggle even when there is a discount.
3. Price is the same in "dealerships" owned by the manufacturer or privately owned "dealerships"- I'm not sure if any car companies in the US have manufacturer owned dealers, but either way, whoever owns them, the price is the same in every dealership.
4. If you haggle you can get maybe some bonus stuff like floor rubber carpets or a free alarm system at maximum. Suckers!!!
5. It's incredible how you tolerate that situation. Actually, you sound like the ones who are boned, we have a brand here called Saturn with that no-haggle policy- guess what it doesn't sell very well - we want to haggle.
6. DID YOU CONSIDER THAT ALOT OF PEOPLE HERE ARE TALKING ABOUT USED CARS- you can't have set prices for used cars, each one is a little different after some use/abuse. - KicktheDonkey, on 10/10/2007, -0/+2I've got one small issue with #3.
"Try online banks like Capitalone.com If you have a good credit score you can secure a good interest rate."
Agree 100%. Get your financing taken care of BEFORE you show up at the dealer.
" Dealerships know how to make a killing using their banks. Take this tactic away from them."
Depends if they're offering you a lower rate than the one you walked in with. That happened to me once. They offered me something like 0.50% lower than what my CU offered me (and they were the lowest of any lender I found). At that point, I didn't care if they were still making a killing of my interest. Who cares? I saved a little bit, too. - drakino, on 10/10/2007, -2/+4Step #1 should be to check any discounts you can get from work. For example, I've worked places that offer the Ford X-Plan to their employees. This is a system that allows me to walk into a Ford dealership with a X-Plan number, and walk out with a vehicle at a price slightly above invoice. It's a very specific discount on all their vehicles, and dealers are not allowed to deviate from it or try to sneak in extra fees. Most of the manufacturers have a similar plan, and the sales people drop so much of their BS plans when you come armed with one, as they know they can't screw you without it hurting them.
Also, if your particular place of employment doesn't offer this, search around for people willing to share on a friends and family plan. Plenty of people have gotten X-Plan pin numbers from posters at Blue Oval Forums. - smackkmonkey, on 10/10/2007, -0/+2for new cars just do an invoice deal- have them show you their invoice what they paid for the vehicle and negotiate based on that.
- rarson, on 10/10/2007, -0/+2That's a pretty dumb thing to do, as a salesman, to waste someone's time and not sell them anything. Especially if they know you were just wasting their time.
How about don't be a prick salesman? It would probably help the business out if their employees weren't plotting to screw over their customers. The customer is, after all, always right (usually). - KamelJockey, on 10/10/2007, -0/+2While I agree that Honda is a good quality, reliable and USA made car, your best approach is to wait for their clearance event, and then go to edmunds and request a bunch of dealer quotes. I did this, paid $1000 under invoice for a fully loaded Civic EX. I also did my own financing, but got a better APR through the dealer.
- SadMartigan, on 11/25/2008, -0/+2I had to check out www.vw.com to see what you were talking about. My first guess is that U.S. Americans already view VW's as 'kiddy' cars in the first place, and VW has probably taken a page from the Apple marketing book of minimalist-models-and-options. This year's site is quite a bit different than last year's, I have to admit. I don't know if it's because I'm trying to access from outside the U.S., but it's seems to be a little fishy to me, too.
Try something like this:
The Jetta with the weakest engine available in the U.S. - 2.5L - 150 HP = $16,500 = 12,100 Euros
The Jetta with the weakest engine available in Spain: - 1.6L - 115 HP = $31,361 = 23,080 Euros
(twice as much money for a wimpy compact.)
The Jetta with the strongest engine available in U.S: - 2.0L - 200 HP = $22,110 = 16,271 Euros
The Jetta with the strongest engine available in Spain: - 2.0L - 170 HP = $38,250 = 28,150 Euros diesel
(ouch)
Rabbit (Golf) 2.5L 150HP - $14,900 = 10,965 Euros
Golf ------ 1.6: 115HP $26,632 = 19,600 Euros
(it gets worse)
U.S. Jeep Patriot 170HP $15,110 = 11,120 Euros
Spain Jeep Patriot 140HP $35,111 = 25,840 Euros Diesel
(More than double!!)
U.S. Jeep Libertry ------- 210HP $20,990 = 15,447 Euros
Spain Jeep Cherokee (Liberty) 163HP $41,715 = 30,700 Euros Diesel
(holy *****!!!)
Dodge Caliber 148 HP $14410 = 10,604 Euros
Dodge Calibre 143 HP $24,458 = 18,000 Euros Diesel
(still pretty bad) - adikt, on 10/10/2007, -1/+3I did this when buying a house. I used a mortgage broker to secure a guarantee letter. The broker was offering 7.2% 2 year variable. Uh... no. After I got the letter I shopped around and got 6.25% 30-year fixed from a different broker.
- wrrock, on 06/16/2009, -0/+1yeah right, before they actually give you prices, you cannot 'price autonomously.' the plain fact is you must use the power of competition against the sales people. my father swears by this process: http://excarsalesman.typepad.com/
- inactive, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1Anyone have a guide for bringing down the cost of cars that are nice and actually have high demand? I don't really care about getting a good deal on a Civic. I find it difficult to demand thousands off a car that has a potential buyer willing to pay full coming in tomorrow.
- voodoobru, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1wow, worst advice evar!
let me see where this thing goes wrong.
4.Go to the dealership you absolutely NEVER want to do business with. - so this way you can waste both yours and the salesmans time, excellent advice there
6. Go get cash or a a pre-approved car loan for something less than the upper amount. Put the cash or check in a blank sealed envelope. - so its easier to get lost or stolen, ok.
8. Go to the dealer you want to deal with -- on a weekday, in the morning.
10. Show them the envelope. Tell them you have cash/a pre-approved loan check, and three chances to get it from you if you can drive out by an exact time (by 3 PM is usually good), all paperwork done, taxes paid, and every other fee under the sun taken care of for less than the amount in the envelope. - so let me get this straight, you plan on making car buying a whole day experience?
now for the alternative.
1.find the car(s) you want online
2.testdrive the ones you're interested in
3.option it out online, use edmunds to find the fair price, or name your own
4.list out in detail the car, the specs, and the price, and include the tax/lic and dest fees in there in a printed form.
5.fax this "offer" out to several dealerships.
6.call back the one(s) that agree and arrange a closing meeting with the gm/finance person (not salesperson)
7.go, read the forms, pay the pre-arranged price
i used this technique successfully and didn't spend more than an hour inside the dealership. the whole phone conversation was done in 10 minutes. - HughJaas, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1I just bought a car 3 weeks ago through Costco. Best experience ever! Went in armed with my carsdirect.com quote, but the predetermined Costco price was already cheaper out the door. Absolutely no haggling needed. Options were also at a predetermined price.
- SadMartigan, on 11/25/2008, -0/+1If we would like to purchase decent a new car, over here in Europe...
WE TAKE A LOT OF CRAP - from dealerships who act like cartels...
Try something like this:
The Jetta with the weakest engine available in the U.S. - 2.5L - 150 HP = $16,500 = 12,100 Euros
The Jetta with the weakest engine available in Spain: - 1.6L - 115 HP = $31,361 = 23,080 Euros
(twice as much money for a wimpy compact.)
The Jetta with the strongest engine available in U.S: - 2.0L - 200 HP = $22,110 = 16,271 Euros
The Jetta with the strongest engine available in Spain: - 2.0L - 170 HP = $38,250 = 28,150 Euros diesel
(ouch)
Rabbit (Golf) 2.5L 150HP - $14,900 = 10,965 Euros
Golf ------ 1.6: 115HP $26,632 = 19,600 Euros
(it gets worse)
U.S. Jeep Patriot 170HP $15,110 = 11,120 Euros
Spain Jeep Patriot 140HP $35,111 = 25,840 Euros Diesel
(More than double!!)
U.S. Jeep Libertry ------- 210HP $20,990 = 15,447 Euros
Spain Jeep Cherokee (Liberty) 163HP $41,715 = 30,700 Euros Diesel
(holy *****!!!)
Dodge Caliber 148 HP $14410 = 10,604 Euros
Dodge Calibre 143 HP $24,458 = 18,000 Euros Diesel
(still pretty bad) - goodvinboy, on 09/27/2009, -0/+1A really good car buying guide!
- timfitz99, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1Is there a cached copy? Looks like the server's slammed.
- rarson, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1I want a cheap car that won't depreciate much. I'm obviously not looking for a late-model Honda or Toyota. Not that those cars don't hold their value, but they'll still depreciate faster than a car that is at least a few years old. Americans will be in for a shock when their economy collapses because of the ridiculous money handling of the Federal Reserve, and they're no longer able to buy the latest and greatest whatever on a whim.
There's no reason a person can't by a 4- or 5-year-old car instead of a new one. But the American mentality is newer, better, more. - DevlinD, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1How the hell does this even relate to Motor sports??
Buried... - KicktheDonkey, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1True dat. Edmunds.com is the best source I've seen for doing that kind of research.
- KicktheDonkey, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1Great idea. Unless you're looking for a late model, low mileage Honda or Toyota. And you're when you're buying in August when they're running steep discounts.
My wife's new Pilot ended up being $1,000 cheaper than one year only Pilots with > 12,000. Why wouldn't I buy new? - inactive, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1Do you honestly think you are going to "screw over the car dealership"? No way. Everything in the dealer is profitable. Even the free coffee makes a profit. You know their invoice price? So what. Everybody does. The dealer will even show it to you. You're making the salesman sweat? Big deal. He's just the go-between for you and the sales manager, the guy who actually makes the deal.
Don't think that by reading this you're going to have an upper hand. Car dealers stay in business because they don't lose money. - eidolons, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1This list is way too complicated... and it never mentions the most important bottom-line in negotiations: the invoice price. Go to Edmunds.com and find out what dealerships are actually paying for cars. The closer you can negotiate down to this number, the better a "deal" you are getting. See how close to the invoice price you can get with your negotiations, and set before-hand a set over-the-invoice limit that you're willing to go (500 bucks, 1000?).
Make absolutely sure you're happy with a car they have on the lot. If they don't have it on the lot, chances of getting close to invoice price are next to nil.
Time your car buying to that time of year when they're rolling out the old models to make room for the new year models. They'll be willing to give you a very good price on cars because they need to get them off their lot. - rarson, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1Or, just don't buy from a dealership. Used cars are cheaper and depreciate less than new cars anyway.
- Spuy767, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1This is like the "No *****" guide to buying a car. Walking out is the number one way to get a better offer. The rest is just "doing your homework" which anyone should be doing. Biggest thing is, learn every incentive that the dealer gets and spiffs they get from the manufacturer. I got a brand new 2007 Accord for 16,700 like that. The dealership ended up making about $200 on the sale instead of 6 grand at sticker. I just took the promotional financing tho, it's hard to find a car loan better that 2.9%.
- deanbrooks, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1This list is absurd and vastly incorrect. I've written a lengthy deconstruction based on my experience as a car salesman. You decide for yourself which guide is better: http://digg.com/motorsport/How_to_Buy_a_Car_the_Right_Way_A_Deconstruction_of_the_13_Step_Method
- KicktheDonkey, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1I've bought my last two cars that way (emailing all the intertube sales departments). Got to say, it's the easiest thing to do for me.
- Spuy767, on 10/10/2007, -0/+1Invoices are meh, dealers get holdbacks from manufacturers on cars sold, and often get a retroactive kickback on EVERY car of a single model sold over the past YEAR if they hit certain sales numbers. You buy a car at invoice, they probably get 1500-3000, you get financing with them that isn't promotional from the manufacturer, you can count on giving them another grand.
- mousky, on 10/10/2007, -0/+113 steps? It's just better to know an insider. My wife's boss' father is a fleet salesperson at a local dealer. He offers a great price. We agree. Fill out the paperwork and pick up the car in a day or two. No calling around. No visiting other dealers. No bringing a lunch. No bringing an envelope of money. Quick and painless.
He has been good to us on two vehicle purchases. Knowing the field of work my wife is in, he has offered to have some one pick up the car at my wife's place of work.I just hope he doesn't retire in the next two years. - amarella, on 10/10/2007, -0/+0You decide for yourself which guide is better: (hun) http://vendeglatas.szon.hu
- springboks, on 10/10/2007, -0/+0I'm glad blue book isn't mentioned in the article. A car never sells for the blue book guesstimate.
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