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Build a DIrtY MIRT (Do It Yourself Mobile InfraRed Transmitter)
i-hacked.com — In the recent FromTheShadows release the device the mysterious hacker is using to change the RED lights to GREEN is a MIRT. A MIRT is a device that uses Infra Red technology to trigger Pre-Emptive sensor on a traffic light and causes the light to change to green. Here is how to build one for less than $20
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- PacoBell, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Congrats. Throroughly informative! I'm still wondering if this couldn't be done with some universal TV remote, tho.
- r00tWearsRedHat, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0http://www.digg.com/hardware/Build_a_DIrtY_MIRT_(Do_It_Yourself_Mobile_InfraRed_Transmitter)
just carry one of these - magician13134, on 05/10/2008, -0/+1Actually, it can, however most remotes aren't powerful enough to work. The Extra High Powered TV-B-Gone designed in the forums at www.ladyada.net has enough power and allows codes to be added, so that will work, in fact, I'm finishing mine up right now, I just needed to verify that it was indeed 18Hz.
- r00tWearsRedHat, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0http://www.digg.com/hardware/Build_a_DIrtY_MIRT_(Do_It_Yourself_Mobile_InfraRed_Transmitter)
- 7of7, on 10/12/2007, -1/+0Yeah, he talked me right out of wanting one. I think I'll be alright with red lights for now. My physics teacher in high school said he had one, but I think he was blowing it out his ass because he was talking about some sort of strobe system.
- adml_shake, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0^^ no some of the old systems used to look for the strobe patter that the police cars and other Emergency vehicles put off. I've seen those used on old stop lights before. And remember this won't work on all of them, some cities don't install this kind of stuff.
- dhughes, on 10/12/2007, -1/+1If you build one, enjoy your 14 years in jail!
- velox, on 10/12/2007, -0/+1I'd really hate to see anyone actually using this, but it's always fun to learn HOW to. That's an interesting article. I especially liked the physical method listed at the bottom of the page.
- CypherXero, on 10/12/2007, -1/+0You mean "DIY MIRT"?
- deafmute, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Sweet, this just saved me a bunch of money and time finessing the right people.
- alpha7q, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0nice, good detail (Y)
- kevincadogan, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2did anyone get the part #'s from mouser.com???
- Calis, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0I'd build these for our ambulances if our traffic lights were sophisticated enough. Nice article.
- majik, on 10/12/2007, -1/+0on a somewhat related note. does anybody know how to make an IR *receiver* with a usb/serial connection to hook up to the pc? i recently bought a StreamZap ( http://www.streamzap.com ) remote that has an IR receiver you connect to your pc via usb. a program you install will let you use the remote to control certain aspects of your pc, such as media players. i ended up programming that remote's IR signlas to my universal remote. i would like to build my own IR receiver to do the same on my other PC's without ponying up the $30~ for the remote/shipping.
- toolwerx, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2If anyone happens to have the part numbers for mouser.com please post.
thanx in advance - BassKozz, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0>If anyone happens to have the part numbers for mouser.com please post.
>thanx in advance
I'd like to see the parts list also
Anyone got'em ? - BassKozz, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0>did anyone get the part #'s from mouser.com???
- xcomm, on 10/12/2007, -0/+2I read a little more info if any one has built this... if you change the rate to 14Hz you will have a higher priority.
“Low Priority� is generally considered to be 10 hertz (10 flashes-per-second) while “High Priority� is 14 hertz. The MIRT is only availabl in “HIGH PRIORITY� 14 hertz. - cow_juice, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0another note, in the "from the shadows" box you can hear the unit discharging, that is because it /is/ a strobe light, only behind an ir filter. using a strobe would definitely get better distance.
- cow_juice, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0by the way, does anyone know what the value of R1 would be to get a 14 Hz flash rate?
- silvershadow21, on 03/14/2008, -0/+2You're never going to read this, and I'm not sure why I'm even posting this, but it would be 18845 ohms. I was just looking through here to scrounge up any more info about it and I recently calculated it myself.
- mahans, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0any one get this to work?, i did some research and the low priority frequency is 9.639Hz in some areas, not sure if it applies every were, 14.035Hz is the high priority frequency. The real devices use a strobe behind a visible light filter and use a frequency crystal to maintain frequency not a 555ic circuit.
- OIF2_IFTE, on 10/12/2007, -0/+3now I havent build one from this component list yet, but here is a bit of a parts list for the construction of your MIRT.
componet list and part numbers
http://mouser.com/
Description: Schematic designator: Part Number: Price Each:
(2) 100K Resistors R2 & R4 660-CF1/2L104J $0.05
1K Resistor R3 660-CF1/2L102J $0.05
Controller ICNE555 IC1 512-LM555CM $0.33
500K Multiturn Potentiometer R1 652-3006P-1-504 $1.55
2N2222 Transistor (IR Driver) Q1 511-2N2222A $0.86
2N3055 Transistor (IR Driver) Q2 511-2N3055 $1.68
.1uF Ceramic Capacitor C2 140-50Q9-104Z $0.26
.47 uF Electrolytic Capacitor C1 140-MLRL50V.47 $0.08
www.bgmicro.com
Description: Part Number: Price Each:
High Power IR Array LED1007 $12.95
www.radioshack.com
Description: Part Number: Price Each:
8-Pin Retention Contact 276-1995 $0.69
PC Board 276-159 $2.29
Cigarette Lighter Adapter 270-1509 $3.99
I didnt get this list from i-hacked, but i spent a while refrencing the best parts i could find from mouser.com, radioshack.com and bgmicro.com. - OIF2_IFTE, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0still if you want the actual list best if you just become a member of i-hacked and get the actual parts list and detailed scematics for building the PCB.
- mahans, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0For R1 15-20k is around 14hz depending on the tolerance of your caps and resistors.. So no need for a 500k trimpot, only 150k. Unless you want ot be able to get a 5Hz blink rate.
- BIGGY350z, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Ok, but R1 isn't actually adjustable is it? How would you adjust the rate of it, or what would have to be added/removed to do that?
- JDirty, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0I understand that utilizing a strobe will achieve further distances, but at the same time isn't as "stealthy" as strictly IR. What distances can be achieved with the setup utilized here?
Also, checking mouser.com I was unable to locate the part number LED1007. Call me crazy and/or stupid, but it's not there. Is it still available through them? - JDirty, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Nevermind that last comment...I see now that the array is from bgmicro.com and not mouser.com.
- 3784, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0We built one for the Chief's car. It's not stable. And doesn't work.Can we use a xtal? Any circuits. Better light needed?
RSVP - thedestroyer515, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Tried and true. I tried it and it's true. Built it from their plans and it works great! Had to set the potentiometer to 40.5k Ohms though.
- thedestroyer515, on 10/12/2007, -0/+03784, If you try using a kit or plans from plans-kits.com or try adjusting to around 40k Ohms for the trimpot you'll probably get good results. Mine works great after A LOT of #@cking with it but it sounds to me like you're either using an audio (radial) trimpot instead of a linear trimpot or you may be having problems with c2 since it regulates the voltage while driving.
- quartapound, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0thanks for the TIP!!! i am where you are (working, adjustable, in the ^*&^acking stage)
i will set POTS to 40 and test again, thanks for the direction, i will test again and let you know!! - quartapound, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0another bit of information they dont really explain... for the LED spotlight, if you make it yourself, make sure you put the lights in strings of 5 or so in series, then put a bunch of those in parallel. thats what was messing me up. i was putting too many leds in series.
- quartapound, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0thanks for the TIP!!! i am where you are (working, adjustable, in the ^*&^acking stage)
- TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0So I have completed this according to I-hacked's instructions and I believe that I have the timing circuit perfected, but the driver circuit doesn't seem to be letting enough voltage through, 9v instead of 12v... and if I up the voltage a bit it seems to work perfectly. what would be causing this?
- v3r71g0, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Whats the deal with the low rez photos of the thing built? No pinouts of the board at least on the site?
I doubt that this device would work at all with the information provided on how its supposed to fit togheter. If anyone has the pcb files plz send them to me. (digitalsamurai@gmail.com) - TJE128, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0The scematic on I hacked does not clearly show where the line from the timing circuit goes on the transitors. Does it go on the neg side or the +? Anyone know?
- TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0hmmm it seems pretty clear to me, once you get your PCB all laid out you can see where it is going, pin three is just there to trigger the transistors at the correct rate, stuck there in-between R4 and R3... top left?
- v3r71g0, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0I was able to find the correct mouser part numbers for the capacitors. Radial and ceramic.
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=262101&e_categoryid=390&e_pcodeid=01417
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=303969&e_categoryid=9&e_pcodeid=75011
Ive got everything else needed to assemle this thing. Ordering some stuff from Electronic Goldmine such as a breadboard and project box. - TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0did you get that timing circuit working? and the part number for the capacitors aren't correct? the only part that I found was sketchy was the 555 timer, I ordered a tiny one instead of the bigger one that fits the socket. but I thnk you can figure out which is the correct one by looking at the pdf describing the differences.
- TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0hm, got mine working, was reading the pinout for the 3055 wrong. terrible. and I believe that I have the timing correct. 3 frames on, 1 off, on a 30 fps camera... I plugged it into my lighter and it seemed a bit underpowered... not bright on the camera, haven't gotten to truly test it out. anyone else?
The Hyena- TheEndorphin, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Can anyone please help me with the instructions. I am not very proficient with electronics. I know it might sound like a dumb thing..but im not sure what kind of wires to use. on http://www.i-hacked.com/images/stories/mirt/step1-finished-test.jpg i see some wires sticking out of the pc board. If anyone could spend about 30 mins and just walk me through this..or possibly provide detailed instructions...on each and everystep i would truly appreciate it.
Thanks!!!
- TheEndorphin, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Can anyone please help me with the instructions. I am not very proficient with electronics. I know it might sound like a dumb thing..but im not sure what kind of wires to use. on http://www.i-hacked.com/images/stories/mirt/step1-finished-test.jpg i see some wires sticking out of the pc board. If anyone could spend about 30 mins and just walk me through this..or possibly provide detailed instructions...on each and everystep i would truly appreciate it.
- TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0yah, I started by copying that picture and after about two seconds of looking at their actual layout you can see that nothing connects to anything and that its all screwed up, hook us up with an email and I'll send you some great stuff that I've found and if you have some adobe photoshop v3r71g0 and I have made up some awesome stuff.
The Hyena - TheEndorphin, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Thanks for the reply. Email me at docabdullah@gmail.com
I have photoshop v10 - gentleben, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0ok, so i'm trying to do this but i haven't had any electronics in 7 years...needless to say i forgot about everything. any help? sbd2a@mtsu.edu
- andrewjm, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0can someone send me diagrams for the one they have working? I can't seem to get it to work. temp4@andrewjm.com -- thanks
- TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0The schematics on the site are good, if you follow those carefully and triple-check your work and pin-outs you should be fine. if you need more instruction analyze and get a more focused question.
The Hyena- astral125, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0did you get yours working right? mine seemed underpowered as well and i could not capture any traffic lights in my area at night. when i pressed the board down a little i think i would short something, because on camera, the LEDs would become super bright, but also go to solid instead of flashing. i am going to redo ever thing, in hopes of fixing this so it is brighter.
- TheHyena, on 11/01/2007, -0/+1yeah, I think it was just the camera I was using made it look red... and make sure that its truly solid by going frame by frame and that you have a 30 fps camera... or make sure the fps is fast enough and that you have a number so that you can calculate the hertz. what are you pushing the board down on? I believe that mine is fully functional but the frequency is off, and since i don't have my own camera, and the person I was borrowing one from is now in New Zealand... work has kinda stalled for now. if any of you are in the denver area and want to loan out a camera though...
The Hyena - uvagrizzly, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0i have been trying to build one of these for my volunteer rescue squad (donations are tough to get, trying to strech them as far as possible). the timing circuit works perfect, but im not getting anywhere near the level of output claimed by the I-hacked directions. the total load of the entire project (timing and led circuits) is only as much as one of the leds is rated to draw (100 mA). according to my calculations the whole project should pull about 3 amps with all of the leds running at max power. just for verification i hooked up an IR receiver to an O-scope.... a standard 3 D-cell flashlight emits about 5 times as much IR light as this system as it is now. has anyone else had similar difficulty, or better yet found a solution?
- 05nbp, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0ok well i know for a fact that there are two different version of the specs to this circuit. the ones that you get to see when you're a member have different pinout destinations and such and its really confusing me now.
im assuming the correct schematic is the one thats available to everyone right? those of you that have it working, what is the working distance of the IR LED array? - TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0you have the one that you get if you're a member? I would like to check it out if its different, see if there is anything effecting the amperage or anything...
The Hyena - 05nbp, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0give me your email addy, and ill send u the pics/schematics or w/e . have you gotten the one on the public site to work properly? by that i mean have you brought it out on the road to test the traffic light preemption? i just ordered another batch of parts cuz i wanna make sure that i didnt fry the other ones wen i applied power.
- TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0the_hyena009 at hotmail.com... and no, I've tried it out once, but I knew that the frequency was incorrect... I need to find someone with a camera so that I can test it some more...
The Hyena - TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0Just for everyone's benefit
>
>Hello i built it from the designs on the public site and I am having
>serious difficuties. I read that are different plans. if you have
>them can you send them to me? I would be gratefull for your help.
>
No, there aren't any different correct plans, the ones they give you if you pay are total *****, so take the schematic on the page and draw it out with a pen and paper in a way that makes sence to you. Then either make your project again or carefully check EVERYTHING twice at least, and not late at night...
The Hyena - 05nbp, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0mouser.com stopped selling the .1uf capacitor by single units. now you can only buy them in quantities of 2500 or more. does anyone know an alternative capacitor to use?
- TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0are you sure? it seemed like they would let me just order one... if it still doesn't work for you I'm sure there is another online place that has one just like that...
http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&D=*14050Q9104Z*&terms=140-50Q9-104Z&Ntt=*14050Q9104Z*&Dk=1&Ns=SField&N=0&crc=true - krysiu88, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0some one was trying this?
how to change traffic lights
1. A strobe light that pulses 10 or 14 times per second,
2. A way to power it in your car http://www.radioshack.com/search.asp?find=dc+inverter&hp=search&SRC=1&image1.x=32&image1.y=39
3. An infrared pass filter http://www.maxmax.com/aXNite82mmInfrared.asp also check ebay.
Put the IR pass filter over the strobe light plug into the dc inverter and plug the dc inverter into your car then point the stobe at a traffic light that has a preemption sensor and wah lah the light should most definitely change in 2-3 secconds when using 14hz high priority and a little longer with 10hz low priority strobe.
http://www.totse.com/en/bad_ideas/irresponsible_activities/changingtraffi191404.html
maybe someone can tell me with IR filter use, 760nm, 850nm or 950nm??
http://cgi.ebay.com/25mm-IR-Infrared-FILTER-X-Ray-Sony-DCR-DVD-101-201-301_W0QQitemZ7628455277QQihZ017QQcategoryZ48525QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem - TheHyena, on 10/12/2007, -0/+0hey, does anyone know of any way to check the actual frequency besides using a video camera? I am not finding one readily available...
The Hyena -
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