Gobs of Pleasure? No Thanks

thepour.blogs.nytimes.com — It’s a response to the gushing critical use of the word “gobs’’ to describe wines of overwhelming power and fruity sweetness, as in the phrase “gobs of hedonistic pleasure,’’ or “explosively rich with gobs of crushed blackberries and raspberries and a texture bordering on syrupy.’’ If you like blockbuster portlike wines formidably endowed...