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92 Comments
- inactive, on 05/18/2009, -1/+75I just remove the pads then the squeaking goes away.
- Octanum, on 05/18/2009, -1/+28As a kid, I had squeaky breaks on my bike. I somehow came up with the idea to put WD-40 on them... Stopping got very difficult.
- Khast, on 05/18/2009, -0/+17Yeah, but how do I get rid of the even more obnoxious grinding noise?
- AlKo, on 05/18/2009, -3/+16Tune up?? Tune ups are generally sucker services.
Most of items included with XX,000 mile "tune-ups" are "checks" which a person knowledgeable about basic car maintenance can check for you. Fluids have level indicators on the containers and brakes are a simple visual check which can sometimes be done without even removing the rims. Suspension bits and such are visible to inspect... don't fall for the "You need new tie rods" scam.
The article does give good advice though personally, I've never had problems with squealing pads unless I was running an aggressive race compound pad. Squealing on those is expected when there's no heat in the rotors.
Some manufacturer compounds are aggressiveness and higher a higher heat range. If you are out on a cold day, and you don't brake much, they may squeal unless you heat the brakes up by using them a bit. This tends to apply more to sporty cars like Porsches, BMWs, etc that run aggressive factory compounds. - SamSks, on 05/18/2009, -0/+12Huh. That sounds easier than what I do: I put grease on my brakes pads. No squeaking, but stopping is a bitch.
- gravisan, on 05/18/2009, -0/+10ffs, get to the ***** point already, the article was written by a women pretending to know what the ***** she is on about with cars
- Jektal, on 05/18/2009, -0/+8Now THAT is good education.
- Subduction, on 05/18/2009, -2/+9Sorry, too busy trying to learn Linux to figure out how to fix my car.
- ray4389, on 05/18/2009, -1/+8remove the caliper as whole and then you will have increased MPG as well with the lowered weight
- streak, on 05/18/2009, -1/+8I just spray my brakes with WD-40. It saves on wear-and-tear, too!
- lateralex, on 05/18/2009, -3/+9Explain how you "tune-up" breaks? This is weird advice at best
- Bense, on 05/18/2009, -1/+7Well, thanks for clearing that up captain obvious.
- tidu, on 05/18/2009, -0/+6Now the next problem: those annoying red lights!
- borez, on 05/18/2009, -1/+6WTF? Everybody knows you fix squeaky things with oil. Duh.
- xaeon, on 05/18/2009, -2/+7They're squeeking because the pads are worn and need replacing. Here's an idea for all those people who like their cars to stop and not go hurtling into the car in front: replace them.
- Leezus, on 05/18/2009, -0/+4You listen to lights and signs?
ARE you a man? Or are you an electric mouse? - frostbyt, on 05/18/2009, -0/+4How to Fix Squeaky Brakes....
Just take them off. - gemlarin, on 05/18/2009, -2/+6Tune ups are a waste of money?
You do realize that the electrodes on the spark plugs wear down as well as the insulation on the wires, resulting in poor spark, poor fuel economy, and possible damage to the emissions system due to raw fuel making its way through the system right?
Also, bending that wear indicator back, so that you can "get more mileage" out of your pads, also causes the pistons in the calipers to over extend and damages the seals. But of course, you knew that already as well. ;) - deadpixel, on 05/18/2009, -1/+5a lot of brake mechs don't like to put 'brake quiet' on there because it's messy...
- Khast, on 05/18/2009, -0/+4If you are going to modify the warnings, at least know how much brake pad you have left. The squealers often kick in at about 25% which means you should change them anyways.
Oh, if you really want to save money on vehicle repairs DO IT YOURSELF. Save yourself an average of $80/hr. - drGt1987, on 05/18/2009, -6/+9Very useful tutorial
- strum40, on 05/18/2009, -0/+3If you ever go to a dealer to get service done and they say you need new brakes, take it somewhere else first. Stealerships play off fear to get people to buy additional services.
- imkidred, on 05/18/2009, -1/+4Any article that tells it's readers to change pads but does not mention properly breaking in those new pads FAILs.
Addi tonally, I usually only get squeaks when it's cold and the car has been sitting. A quick speed up to 35mph and then hitting the breaks decently enough to slow down pretty fast will get most films off the pads. - Culero, on 05/18/2009, -0/+3Getting a tune up is like sending your computer to a repair shop to install ram in that it's easy but if you have no clue how to do anything, you'll get hosed.
- pathouston22, on 05/18/2009, -3/+6Or you could just bend your brake pad wear indicator a little, get rid of the squealing, get a few more miles out of your brakes (if they have the padding), then go replace them.
Tune-ups are a waste of money, simple knowledge about your car saves money. - wrestlingnrj, on 05/18/2009, -0/+3Where's the missing final steps of bedding in your brakes once you put on the new pads and hopefully turn your rotors?
- Boofster, on 05/18/2009, -1/+4PLEASE DO NOT USE THIS!
Completely inaccurate. The red gunk is sounds good at first but all it does is make a mess. Brake pads that squealed before keep squealing with this. I used to swear by it but eventually found out that better pads already take care of noise with integrated shims.
Again, this red gunk does nothing. There is even danger on bad uneven clamping on the pads when you add this.
Just make sure to clean up all the contact areas from dirt/dust before installing the new pads.
I recommend AXXIS ULTIMATE pads for better than OEM street use. They DO NOT squeal. - inigomntoya, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2Is this one of those "A Message from your DipStick" commercials?
- UnixSkunk, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2 An interesting note about torqueing down the lugnuts on your wheels. All brakes really do is convert kinetic energy to heat energy. This heat energy is then stored in the rotor/pads/calipers, and to a degree, the rims, and radiated into the air. The rims of your vehicle work as part of a heat sink for your brakes/brake rotor.
If you dont tighten them down to approximately the same torque, you dont get even heat transfer to the rim, which can increase the likelihood of rotor warping. A warped brake rotor will in fact rub against the pads and cause more noise. - Qazerr, on 05/18/2009, -1/+3tl;dr: Spread loads of vaseline on the brake discs, that will fix it ;)
- SamSks, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2That may be. I once ran the pads so low that the rivets dug into the rotors- yep, $500+ later for new rotors and pads. And this was at cheapo PEP Boys in the early 90's!
That's what I get for cranking up the music so that I couldn't hear the brakes squealing! Now, I'm old so even with the radio off, I still can't hear the brakes. I got to check them whenever I rotate my tires. - shadowspawn, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2That same "squeal" you hear can be heard at the same harmonic as the brakes are first cut, or turned. When rotors are turned, they tend to ring. It happens. It's like rubbing a damp finger around a wine glass.
The ringing then aligns all other cuts to ring at that harmonic. It changes on large cuts, but you don't want to do large cuts as it takes away plenty of meat. Putting dampners on the rotors while turning them helps, but you need something that will absorb more than the mass of the rotor at least, and then you might make the rotor off balance or ***** with the lathe you are using to cut it.
A guy who worked at a porche factory, open-wheel for a few years as a pit mechanic on 3 teams, and had additional training at a mercedes factory showed me a few tricks to stop it when I worked as a broom-boy in HS at a dealership that catered to expensive cars. Old guy. Cursed a lot. Two lifts to himself. Had toolboxes combined worth more than my house.
Some of those bastards with 200k cars don't want to hear the brakes ring, so you go to race-track solutions to stop it. - forcedfx, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2Ahhh not always the case. If you own a VW Passat or Audi A4 you probably need tie rod ends. Unless of course you like hitting a bump and having one wheel turn right or left when you want to go straight.
- palmer, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2And still manages to be inaccurate and incomplete, because it doesn't discuss "crystallized" pads and rotors. These shriek like hell and endanger you by drastically reducing braking power.
Here's a more accurate article:
http://www.cnn.com/2009/LIVING/wayoflife/05/06/aa. ... - Smokeydabear, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2So you were saying you used to glide through the skies on thermals with peregrine falcons?
- MonoDede, on 05/19/2009, -0/+2Not enough oil.
- adraft, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2At the shop I worked at we had a guy come in who said his brakes had been squeeling for a long time. I pulled his car into a bay and took off the wheels only to find that he had worn through the actual pad part of his brakes, the metal that the pad mounts to, and part of the actual caliper that does the squeezing. No joke.
The lesson to take away from this is don't ignore brake squeeling! This guy turned a relatively routine maintenance procedure into a major disaster. - Wxndel, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2Mechanics these days use air impact wrenches to put on wheel nuts and bolts so tight that you have to get professional help to even change a wheel. This can distort the discs enough to cause squealing. My Mercedes used to have a horrible brake squeal until I started torquing the wheel bolts to recommended specs, which was about 72 ft-lbs as I recall. At this spec, wheel bolts are very easy to remove. It isn't necessary to tighten them down to the max with air impact wrenches.
- shifty2, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2Dugg for AXXIS pads!
I got those AXXIS pads on my both my cars, 08 Civic and 89 Spec E30.
Best stopping power without brake fade and NEVER squeals even when worn down! - TheMidnight, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2Diggers have to save the Vaseline for other activities.
- pendrachken, on 05/18/2009, -1/+3Yeah, no such thing as brake chatter is there? Or warped rotors. There are more reasons you can get brake noise than just worn pads. Hell, most of the time people notice brake noise is just after they get new pads put on. Reason being, the pads are going to sit closer to the disk and also be more sensitive to changes in the hydrolic pressure since the piston isn't almost completely extended.
- MikeSD34, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2That ***** gets everywhere and it's a bitch to get off. I don't think I've ever seen anything quite as bad.
- palmer, on 05/18/2009, -1/+3It's spam, as usual.
- dclowd9901, on 05/18/2009, -0/+2I disagree. A useful tutorial would've been less than 200 words. This is droning and long.
- Hurricane, on 05/20/2009, -0/+1Several brands of brake pads used to come with a small packet of silicone.
This is a lame article and simply talks about old common sense.. - inactive, on 05/19/2009, -0/+1WD-40 removes the squeak, but it also removes the ability to STOP!
- adraft, on 05/18/2009, -0/+1I worked in a garage for about 3 years. Whenever I did a brake job the new brakes would come with blue goop that you put on either side of the shims and as far as I know they were great for silencing squeels.
- TypeEE, on 05/18/2009, -0/+1Can even patent that idea.
- CaviMike, on 05/18/2009, -0/+1Good thing this article told you NOT to change your pads if they're fine!
God, how many of you idiots could possibly show up in one thread? - inactive, on 05/18/2009, -0/+1Porceline brake pads would also be a good tip
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