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13 More Things Your Auto Mechanic Won't Tell You

rd.com — Real mechanics reveal more tips to help you avoid an auto-repair scam

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  • labboy, on 05/07/2008, -5/+12thanks for the article. I'm now a tad less clueless (though not sure my wife is going to like me bringing old parts back to the house)
    • BOFH2, on 05/07/2008, -1/+4sjometimes just asking for them can be enough. However they may have some from another car. Pay attention to your car, stand outside of it and have someone drive it near you, make them take tight turns (slightly accelerating) this will tell you if you have worn cv joints. have them stop slowly to see if your brakes grind, do things like that...
      • bhavinp, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1What if they start charging extra for the list of things you want them to do? They might not have time for that.
        • Coded1, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2The idea is to separate the assholes from the person you want to do business with. When you go to pick up the car ask them to show you the old part, you don't necessarily need to take it home with you. Just be interested in the person's job and you will learn, not really how to fix your car but how to relate your every day driving to the parts that gave out on you or was giving you trouble.

          This really should be with out asking by the mechanic. I know from looking at a set of my own breaks how stupid I was for waiting so long, now I know when I have any issues I know how much it costs and how long it will take all I have to do is set up an appointment.
    • TSSaloic, on 05/07/2008, -1/+3Recycle the parts?
      • ccheath, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1i work at a gm dealership and lots gets thrown out, but most if not all of the metal gets taken to be 'recycled'
        and a one of the tips need a bit more clarification ...
        the gm certified pre-owned warranty is better than the factory warranty (if you get a 1 or 2 yr old car with low miles its a great deal!)
        the gm cp-o warranty is 7 yrs / 100k ! (bumper to bumper not just powertrain)
        and i know that other makes have that as standard but i'm comparing to the gm standard warranty
        aftermarket warranties are scams a lot of the time
    • Tomchei, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1When I was young and dumb, I had a fender bender with a curb on a wet road in Maryland. My cheap car needed to be repaired there so I was stuck in MD for a couple of days and stayed with a friend for the duration (weekend and closed Sunday). Apparently, as I was told, it is a state law that mechanics have to give you the parts they replaced to cut down on scammers.
      After my car was fixed, I drove home with a new CV joint in use and a bent CV joint in a greasy box.
    • lamiaconfitor, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5most parts receive a core charge. asking a mechanic to give you the old part may ( especially if they are honest...) result in a slight raise in the price of the repair. DIYers like myself who do simple repairs like replacing their alternator etc... know that if you buy a new part, you will get a core return discount. That simply means that the repair shop is returning the old one for a rebuild or to be recycled, they get discounts for either.
    • sporg, on 05/07/2008, -0/+6 "The market is being flooded with cheap parts from China. Request a name-brand replacement and ask to see its box."

      This statement is just ridiculous most of the name brand parts people recognize for car parts are made by contractors in china. Also parts ordered from bulk warehouses often do not come with fancy printed packaging they come in a plain cardboard box.
  • granolajoe, on 05/07/2008, -4/+63We just did the transmission flush on our car recently. That sucks :(
    • youri, on 05/07/2008, -3/+24They're actually wrong on that. Entire transmission flush is the only way to replace all the tranny fluid unless you're going to waste your time and fluid with drain-and-fill. I guess you might not want to do a flush on a high mileage car as it may make it even worse as you risk dislodging sludge and such. It only costs about $120 to do anyway.
      • chevyorange, on 05/07/2008, -3/+21I think the "flush" they're talking about is when they mechanics don't actually take the pan off and change the filter. The "bad flush" is when they just hook a machine up to the lines to flush the system. This is bad because your old trans filter is still used in the car, the same as changing your oil but not the oil filter.
        • docholiday, on 05/07/2008, -1/+10I don't know why you were dugg down you're 100% right.
          • mem2, on 05/07/2008, -2/+6because digg is full of ignorant but opinionated idiots.
        • neilschelly, on 05/07/2008, -21/+3He was probably dug down because of the non-existence of a transmission fluid filter.
          -N
        • deceiver117, on 05/07/2008, -0/+18There is such a thing as a transmission fluid filter ;)
          It is just not in plain view, its inside the transmission as soon as you remove the pan. They are odd-shaped and rectangular unlike the typical engine oil filter.
          • expert01, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Not always rectangular (maybe not even often?) Mine is a very odd shape.

            And the flush service is junk, the filter does need replaced. Drain and fill is not a waste of time, and fluid absolutely DOES need changed on older vehicles; that's oil, and it breaks down. And doing it yourself costs around $40.
        • schnikies79, on 05/07/2008, -1/+15No such thing as a transmission fluid-filter? Like deveiver117 said, it's a flat filter inside the transmission pan. Manual transmissions normally don't have a filter but all automatics do.

          Please never work on your car. Thanks.
    • BOFH2, on 05/07/2008, -4/+3Fords sometimes need it but only if the transmission won't shift when cold.
    • deceiver117, on 05/07/2008, -5/+33I have a friend that is an Autoshop teacher who specializes in transmissions, particularly rebuilding automatic transmissions with planetary gearsets (which is most transmissions minus those found in hondas and in some newer cars). He told me that in automatic transmissions that are daily drivers, the fluid should NOT be changed, ever! The fluid with time gets filled with shavings and dust from the submerged clutchpack and keeps the shifting smooth. He said just take a peek at your fluid every so often, about every time you change your oil, make sure the level stays consistant over time(check with the motor on so that the torque converter/hydro pump is circulating) and that the fluid is pinkish. Once it goes brown, that's when you know your transmission burned out. Also, having rebuilt 700R4 transmissions, I can definitely support his claim.
      • DeathJux, on 05/07/2008, -3/+9Why are people digging you down? Seems like sound, legitimate advice to me.
        • haydesigner, on 05/07/2008, -0/+6I don't know if it is legit or not... but some links to supporting articles would be helpful.
      • powerhouse, on 05/07/2008, -0/+11This is for my tranny, Why would the manufacturer lie? I'm pretty sure I will just stick with the recommended maintenance.

        Transmission Fluid quantity Fluid & filter
        42RE 4-6 qts. (service)
        9.5-10 qts. (overhaul)
        Mopar® ATF +4, type 9602
        Primary Filter (internal, flat):
        P/N 52118789
        ($14.35 MSRP)
        (also adjust bands) Interval A 100,000 mi. Interval B 30,000 mi.
        • nofrendo, on 05/08/2008, -4/+0YOU OWN A DODGE. LOL. GTFO.

          JUST REPLACE IT WITH A REAL CAR.
        • brad3378, on 05/11/2008, -0/+1If the manufacturer could get away with a Million mile maintainance interval, don't you think they would brag about it in their advertising?
          Of course they would.

          By the way - never take advice from a person named "Deceiver" on digg.com without asking for a second opinion.
          As an ASE master mechanic myself, I'm calling him out on his *****.
      • dhughes, on 05/07/2008, -0/+7 I think the information got mistranslated. The #1 enemy of a transmission is heat, the trans fluid cools and lubricates it and also is used as the "blood" of the trans.
        The trans fluid breaks down under the heat and stress and should be changed every couple of years.
        The only time I would say to a person who knows nothing about cars that they don't change their trans fluid us if it's been over five years, to me it's probably a lost cause after that. The fluid is so thin and parts worn that new fluid may cause damage.
        • deceiver117, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Actually, now that you mentioned it, I posted a comment stating exactly that(got lost in digg?). Heat is the number one enemy of auto transmissions. For daily driving, the tranmission should hold up fine. However, when towing, don't go over spec. If you are using a truck for towing, it should have a transmission fluid cooler. A few trucks, like my C/K1500 routes the fluid through the radiator. In terms of swapping fluid, the practice that I have been using when working with a high mileage car, is that I replace the filter, but recycle the fluid. Meaning that I reuse the old fluid.
      • edebolt, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1varies by tranny design and read the mfg req's. In the US there are requirement ratio's for maintenance cost so mfg's will understate req servicing to come in under limits. if you have a AWD like a subaru then you will notice instant reduction of noise and improvement of gas mileage. Find out about your particular tranny and go from there. One size fits all advice is never good.
      • sporg, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2This statement is not true so I guess your name is appropriate.
      • nofrendo, on 05/08/2008, -0/+0Yeah, that's terrible advice. Not changing the transmission fluid for a daily driver? Most cars I work on need to be changed every 24,500 miles. The most important part of this is changing the filter and CLEANING THE MAGNET!!! The metal shavings from the transmission stick to the magnet, and it keeps the fluid cleaner for longer. On cars with trans. drain plugs, the magnet is usually the drain plug, otherwise it's in the transmission pan.
    • gryphon50, on 05/07/2008, -2/+2beware of taking your car to a place that specializes in transmissions. If that is all they do, OF COURSE they are going to say you need a whole new transmission. It may be another issue entirely. I've had two different family members who were told they needed new transmissions, they took their car elsewhere and had something else fixed on it and for much less.
    • Spuy767, on 05/07/2008, -6/+3How about this tip. Go to a reputable dealer. Dealers prices are generally higher, but their repairs are waranteed, they will always use the correct parts, and the mechanic knows what the hell he is doing because he only work on one brand of vehicle. There are some crooked dealers out there, but most don't ***** around because they have to pay penalties if their satisfaction scores are low, and they can even have their service centers shut down if they get a bad reputation, and at most dealerships, no service = no dealership.
      • Antwan718, on 05/07/2008, -1/+7You haven't talked to the mechanics in the dealerships have you.....
        • Spuy767, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1I worked for four years in a dealership, an honest one. I saw so many cars come through that some hole in the wall auto shop had ***** up. I may be biased, but I stand by my statement. You stand a better chance of getting your car fixed right by going to a dealer.
      • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Mechanics at dealerships tend to get paid much better than mechanics at the chain shops. Dealerships are a pretty good bet but best is to find a good independent shop with a mechanic you can trust. It all comes down to the individual working on the car. It is important to note, mechanics at the dealerships typically work on all makes and models of cars. You can get great service on your Ford at a shop that does great work on your Chevy.
    • petebert, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5check your owners manual, its a better resource then people on the internet. most cars calls for a complete fluid change every 30k or so.
      • nofrendo, on 05/08/2008, -0/+0That's a good idea... or even better, ask your dealer! They work with your exact make of car all day, every day. They know their stuff by heart. And also, they know where the manufacturer might have maid a mistake, or what is better for that particular car.
    • sporg, on 05/07/2008, -1/+2...
  • nahsrocketeer75, on 05/07/2008, -16/+14This was an interesting list, but no amount of advice can help me. I know nothing about cars and have no willingness to learn. I'm screwed.
    • wwnexc, on 05/07/2008, -4/+1Just try. Learn by doing.
      If you mess up, you can still have your car towed to a mechanic to have it fixed - not much more could go wrong.
      • bhavinp, on 05/07/2008, -1/+7Yep, theres no hope. Trying to do it yourself to avoid mechanics will only make you wind up at the mechanics.
      • ChildeRoland420, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5I know mechanics that will charge more if your car comes in the door in pieces. It's just gonna be that much harder for them to put it together if they didn't take it apart.
      • asforme, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2I am willing to learn but it has cost me. I've broken several parts I bought trying to install them myself.
    • Tomchei, on 05/07/2008, -1/+18I you have a car, you should spend some time to try to learn about the vehicle that you:
      A) owe money on that depreciates
      B) spend several hours a week in
      C) Depend on for transportation and try to make a living

      Pilots of aircraft will know about oil levels, magnetos, fuel, and weight and balance (among other things), and engine sounds before they take off.

      At the very least, you should know your tire pressure and check it, and know what type of oil and how much and check that regularly.
    • rongometz, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3Then quit b*tching
  • itsgotyou, on 05/07/2008, -0/+119We need to refill the halogen and the blinker fluids. All your tires are in the wrong places, the front is at the back and the left is on the right. We also need to install a 2nd transmission as a back-up.
    • antonio97b, on 05/07/2008, -1/+13Actually, the tire issue is a common issue. If you have directional wheels (angled spokes) and non symmertical tire tread, it can become an issue. Not many people want to reseat a couple of pairs of tires.
      • Whackly, on 05/07/2008, -7/+7You can avoid that problem by using prefamialated amyalite on every seven slot of the stater on the up ended girdle spring of the dingle arm.
      • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -1/+3Some cars also have directional wheels. You can only rotate them front to back.
        • yunus, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1And many of those cars have different size tires on the front and rear meaning you cant rotate them at all.
    • redtaboo, on 05/07/2008, -0/+20Don't forget the muffler bearings
    • Sagags, on 05/07/2008, -0/+13he is referring to this video (not a rick roll you can bury me in infinity if it is)
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FefIzya7fw
      • yunus, on 05/07/2008, -0/+8Your permission is not needed to bury you. Just sayin.
  • Ganja420, on 05/07/2008, -6/+8Mechanics will never check your fuses... and thats the cheapest and easiest fix to do and is often over looked
    • DavidtheDuke, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3I check fuses first :)
    • ChildeRoland420, on 05/07/2008, -0/+10The mechanics I know will definitely check fuses if it's a problem that can be caused by a bad fuse (which is not common).
    • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Blown fuses are usually just an indicator of a larger problem.
    • screensnot, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3Mechanics will check the fuse, if they diagnose that to be a possible problem. They are not idiots.

      Although, there is a tendency to overlook the fuse, by a mechanic, because they sometimes are in the mindset of "If they are bringing it to me, it must be a real problem." Checking for a blown fuse is so easy that a mechanic might just assume that the vehicle owner would be doing that for himself.

      But, that's a rookie mistake. As many of you IT guys know, you just can't assume the user has any intelligence whatsoever.
      • Kzoo, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1I dunno if I'd equate not thinking to check the fuses oneself with no intelligence. Ignorance isn't stupidity by itself. Otherwise that sounds about right. Pretty much any field you learn eventually to assume nothing about the customer/guest/client/etc.
  • miket, on 05/07/2008, -2/+20They may not recommend a flush, but they DO recommend a drain and fill
  • DavidtheDuke, on 05/07/2008, -1/+97I am a mechanic. I am honest with my customers. I don't know how some of the places around me stay in business, you'd think bad word would spread quickly about a shop, considering the seriousness of the work involved. I don't think doctors get off so easy.
    • BobsYourUncle, on 05/07/2008, -1/+40The problem is I don't know an honest one from a crook. I bring my car to a mechanic because I don't know cars. Just like he doesn't do what I do. Everyone has their strengths; cars aren't mine. It's hard to second-guess what you're not confident about to begin with.
      • marx2k, on 05/07/2008, -4/+10Then why do assholes keep coming to MY place of business and tell ME how to flip burgers?
        • deviantsteve, on 05/07/2008, -2/+21Because anyone could do your job?
          • marx2k, on 05/08/2008, -0/+0I don't actually flip burgers, but I'm sure that if I went into Burger King with the idea of making a Whopper with no training in making a Whopper, I would probably fail
    • ashfish, on 05/07/2008, -3/+1We have a place around here that has more than once forgotten to put the breaks back on the cars they fix...This is why i only take my car to mechanics that I know personally.
      • screensnot, on 05/07/2008, -0/+6You just can't forget to 'put the breaks back on' (assuming you mean brakes).

        So, this is basically a case of an uninformed consumer that doesn't know *****. And is just as likely bad-mouthing a good mechanic as they are warning you to stay away from a bad mechanic. And this is at least half the problem.
        • ashfish, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Um, I know this because the girls that work there, and one of the old mechanics that used to work there have seen this happen. I have had employees of this shop tell me to not bring my car there. I wouldn't just make this kind of ***** up. Sorry about the misspelling of brakes.
    • kenplaysviola, on 05/07/2008, -1/+4Quick question: my mechanic says that my rack and pin steering is leaking, so my power steering fluid leaks. I have to refill my power steering fluid every 3-4 months. Will this get worse? It's cheaper for me to buy a $5 power steering fluid than the couple hundred bucks to fix the rack and pin steering. I have an old 97 Camry, but it's going strong with 150K miles on it.
      • deadsenator, on 05/07/2008, -0/+10Except that it leaks petroleum products wherever it goes. That isn't cool.

        It depends on where the leak is. It might be in the steering box (seal), the lines, or the reservoir/pump. Go buy a $20 manual and fix it yourself. If it's not the pump, the fix should be cheap.
        • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1Actually he's dumping them on the engine and burning them. If it's steering box he's screwed (the seal is not replaceable) . He will have to replace it and the main steering shaft. A very expensive job ($2000 plus). Sounds like he is describing a rack leak. If so he can probably have it replaced for less than $300.
          • Antwan718, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1Or its the resivor that is leaking, no specifications were made as to where the problem occurs.
        • JDiZZle300Z, on 05/08/2008, -0/+1If the rack and pinion is leaking then that will eventually need to be replaced because it won't fix itself and will continue to get worse. A rack for that car for the part is around $300 (i work at an auto parts store) if the pump is leaking then that will also need to be replaced cause it will also continue to get worse. In most cases the hoses go first though and the are usually under $50 and easy to replace. Ur last option would be to disconnect the power steering and go to the gym to build up enough strength to turn without power steering :)
      • DeathJux, on 05/07/2008, -5/+10Do you see people hassling computer technicians here about computer problems? No.

        Find an appropriate forum for your make and model of car and ask people there.
      • DavidtheDuke, on 05/07/2008, -1/+8Try powersteering stop leak, the leak sounds small enough it just might work. Of course another leak could develop elsewhere. Sometimes all it is is a bad metal spring clamp that can be replaced with a screw-clamp, which are superior (but not used in the factory because it takes like, I suspect).
        • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2Maybe it is the same as you are describing but I once used a power steering fluid specifically made for cars with leaks (as opposed to adding something to the existing fluid). It worked great. It is cheap and on a car with high miles, it is worth a try.
      • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Is he saying your steering rack is leaking? If so I would replace it if I were you. A steering rack leaking can be part of a bigger problem in the rack or nothing. There is just no way to tell.
    • buddyw, on 05/07/2008, -1/+3Real men don't need power steering.
  • DCGaymer, on 05/07/2008, -8/+2LOL...the only time a car warranty has helped me was the time a mechanic showed me the metal flakes in the transmission fluid. Thankfully it was under warranty so the dealer paid for rebuilding the transmission....well the dealers warranty service that is.
  • nnorton00, on 05/07/2008, -0/+149. "Beware of a mechanic who shows you a transmission pan with metal particles in it, and recommends a major job. The shavings are usually a sign of normal wear."

    good list for people who don't really know whats going on. Numbers 1, 2, 4, 11 and 13 are very key points. On top of #9 though I've heard of mechanics actually taking metal shavings from brake rotor jobs and putting it in the tranny pan and then telling their customers that they need an overhaul.
    • expert01, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Number one is a horrible example. Having replaced the timing gears on my transverse mount HT4100 (an estimated $700 job, took me almost a week), I can tell you that most cars made 80's+ are way too cramped to work in. The pump replacement alone on my vehicle would probably take a mechanic with a fully equipped shop 3-4 hours, and that's if he either dropped the engine cradle or had extremely specialized tools that would get into such cramped spaces.
    • MetalPig, on 05/07/2008, -1/+0That's not the point of #1. The point is that they commonly charge you double labor. Once to take off the belt, and once to change the pump - but taking off the belt is required to change the pump.
  • schnikies79, on 05/07/2008, -0/+17Good advice. I worked as a mechanic for the the first two years of college.

    #13 is one of the best pieces of advice. If they get the parts from Autozone (outside of name brands, like Monroe), move on. Yes it has a lifetime warranty, but if you have to change it 4 times, is it really a better value?
    • BCCartman, on 05/07/2008, -1/+0I agree, I was a mechanic for 11 years before switching to IT and I can't tell you how many times I tried to talk my customers out of the "white box" parts only to have them return weeks- months later for a warranty job.
  • centran, on 05/07/2008, -2/+17Don't buy parts online and then bring them to the mechanic to fix your car with.
    They HATE that. :)
    I just did that to my mechanic. Hey!, I saved a $300 on parts and everything expect the water pump was made by the same manufacture that made the OEM parts. They just didn't say genuine volvo... but the same damn people make the "generic" and genuine parts.
    • DeathJux, on 05/07/2008, -0/+11I've always wondered how much mechanics *actually* hate this. I would presume most of them don't own shares of the shop, so don't really care how much money it makes, and thus wouldn't care that much, as they get paid either way.

      I'm a computer technician, and I am never annoyed if people buy their own hard drive elsewhere to be installed in the machine.
      • ChildeRoland420, on 05/07/2008, -1/+2Most shops make a good portion of their money from the markup on parts. Maybe that's why they don't like it.
        • ravage86, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3Yay for reading comprehension.
          • ChildeRoland420, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1"I would presume most of them don't own shares of the shop, so don't really care how much money it makes, and thus wouldn't care that much, as they get paid either way."
            The owners of the shop are the ones that hire and fire the mechanics, so the mechanics of course want to keep the owners happy. If they care about their job, then they will care about the business and its bottom line (that's what a good employee does). Period.
      • schnikies79, on 05/07/2008, -0/+8Most mechanics make commission and aren't paid by the hour. Shops usually get the parts wholesale (or nearly wholesale) and sell it for retail. A lot of the money made comes from the parts.

        Mechanics do make a lot less by not selling you the parts. At the shop I worked at (a small independent shop), the owner had a deal with a local dealership to do all their work. They started bringing all their own parts and he finally had to cancel the agreement as he started losing money on the deal.
        • DeathJux, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1Thanks for the info. It seems ridiculous to me to put mechanics on a commission basis. This puts emphasis on selling, not giving the customer what s/he needs.
          • schnikies79, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3I guess I should have explained better. It's not in the same sense as something like a car salesman. It's commission based on speed, not on sales. Shops charge what "the book" says you should charge. Some techs have base pay + commission.

            An example. A shop charges a 1hr fee to change a serpentine belt because "the book" says it should take roughly an hour. The mechanic will get x for that 1hr job. If he is quick, he can get the job done in 10mins and will still get paid the 1hr rate. A second person comes in with the same problem and gets charged the same rate and he gets another 1hr commission. He now has a 2hr commission pay for only 20mins of work.

            If he works too slowly, he loses money as well as the shop. If it takes him 2hrs to put the belt on, he only makes 1hr worth of pay and the shop only charges the customer a 1hr rate.
        • expert01, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1From what I've seen (my roommate was a tech at Keller Brothers in Denver (top shop in the nation according to CarQuest), and they got paid hourly, plus commission for services, not parts.
      • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -0/+12We actually hate people who bring in their own parts. We can't guarantee the parts if the customers bring them in so to avoid any possible arguments we also cannot guarantee the work. So basically if you bring a part in and we install it and it fails you're going to have to pay for a new part and installation again. This makes customers unhappy and so...
      • usafdave, on 05/07/2008, -1/+11It's part of the deal. Would you buy steaks at the grocery store, take them to Shenanigans, hand them to your waiter and ask for them back medium rare?

        Work on your own car if you want to buy your own replacement parts.
        • yunus, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1A high quality place like Shenanigans, no probably not. But if I'm going to Ruth's Chris or something, I wouldnt think twice about bringing my Wal-Mart sirloin in for them to broil.
    • deadsenator, on 05/07/2008, -3/+1Not necessarily. Ever own a Volkswagen?
    • FukUrCouch, on 05/07/2008, -1/+6I had a mechanic actually tell me that I couldn't bring my own parts because he couldn't make money off those...
      • Meatetarian, on 05/07/2008, -0/+10At least he was honest. He could have said "Okay, cool." and then charged you double on labor. =P
        • FukUrCouch, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0Well, first a mechanic has to give you an estimate and if that estimate is too high I could just go to another shop and that's what i did. A mechanic can't legally change the amount of the estimate and charge you double.
      • jaymzdean, on 05/07/2008, -1/+2Do usually stiff your waitress, only to tip a waitress who didn't serve you?
        • FukUrCouch, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0Do you tip your mechanic after you paid 95/hr to fix your car?
    • boostfiend, on 05/07/2008, -0/+21Since I ran an independent German repair shop for five years I'll let eveyone on this thread in on a little trade secret: automotive repair shops produce money from part profits. I never minded explaining this to a customer and our shop would gladly use carry-in parts for an additional cost. Anytime someone would describe that as shady I would tell them to bring a steak from the supermarket to Outback Steakhouse and ask them to cook it because you found it a little cheaper.
    • awuwish, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2Definitely true. I just had a similar incident that proves your point of saving money. I bent a rod and broke the skirt on one of my pistons. After taking it out, I called some local dealerships to get prices on a new rod, bearing, and piston. The rod was $115, piston was $60, and the bearings were $25. I went and bought $20 bearings at Oreilley's, and a local machinist got a rod and piston for $50 together and also pressed them together. The rod and piston came from the same factory that supplies the dealerships, so there is a big markup somewhere along the way at the dealerships....all for a few pieces of metal too.
    • MrBenter, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0the customer does not always get the right part for one thing, and mechanics can guarantee their own parts. If the part you bring in doesn't work past the first week the mechanic can blame it on the part and you are just out of luck
    • brad3378, on 05/11/2008, -0/+1Whenever I work on somebody's car, I actually prefer to have them bring the (CORRECT) parts to me.
      There's nothing worse than driving to the auto parts store because I can't charge them for clock time when there's 20 people in line ahead of me.
  • jnava121, on 05/07/2008, -11/+3I would recommend changing the flux capacitor and blinker fluid like the poster said above...
    • DeathJux, on 05/07/2008, -1/+4Digg has this crazy feature called digging up and down. If you read something you agree with, you dig it up, thus eliminating the need for everyone to state the same thing over and over again.

      If you disagree, or dislike, something someone says, you dig it down, or "bury" it. Easy, right?
  • ladn3k, on 05/07/2008, -0/+21ask them how the tiny unicorn got into and poked holes in the exhaust.
    • YuriSakazaki, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3Don't forget to have them recommend a therapist for your radiator as well.
    • somedirtbag, on 05/08/2008, -0/+1The unicorn was also ***** in your filters.
  • dopesick, on 05/07/2008, -13/+8As an mechanic for a living. I am never suprised by these lists or stories. What I am suprised by, is people are still dumb enough to get caught up in this *****. If you own and drive a car, you should know enough about it. Atleast enough to not get screwed blindly.
    • BobsYourUncle, on 05/07/2008, -6/+32If you own and use a PC you should know enough to write your own programs. Seriously, people specialize for a reason. It just so happens mechanics can be crooks too.
      • ChildeRoland420, on 05/07/2008, -8/+4Mechanics don't design cars. Bad Analogy.
        • Heywoodj, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Don't know why your going down.
          Matter of fact if you walk up to a mechanic working on a so called modern car and announce that you designed it. They will beat you into a grease spot on the floor with whatever tool they have in their hand at the time.
      • usafdave, on 05/07/2008, -1/+3Wow, your analogy fails.

        Try this: If you work on a computer, you should know enough about it to understand what a hard drive is, what memory does, and how to use a mouse so I can digg you down.
    • Stochio, on 05/07/2008, -0/+26If you own and use a body, you should know enough about it. At least enough not to get screwed blindly by a doctor.

    • bhavinp, on 05/07/2008, -1/+15Don't be so *****. Not everyone is an expert, as a mechanic YOU should know that. Some of the things on this list are not so obvious to an everyday person. I got scammed by the transmission thing myself, still dont know if its true or not.
      • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Depends on the car. If the tranny was doing fine other than the shavings you probably did get scammed.
    • marx2k, on 05/07/2008, -3/+10@everyone under the OP... he's not telling you guys to be an expert but know the freakin' basics. You're in your car for a huge chunk of your life... you should really know more about it than "hit gas, hit brake, turn wheel, beep beep". And it's the same thing for your computer and your body and anything else you own. It's what keeps your dumb ass from taking your computer into geek squad and them convincing you that in order to check your EMail next year you ill need Windows Vista.
      • bhavinp, on 05/07/2008, -2/+7Knowing that having small metal shaving on the transmission plug is normal is not basic, it requires technical training.
        • schnikies79, on 05/07/2008, -2/+3No it doesn't. You now know it and you didn't need training. One person telling you this is all you need.
        • Daiken, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Cause we just read it in the damn article. I'd never heard about several of these scams before myself. Most likely in 6 months I'll forget them too.
      • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1I agree. If you get a quote for a car repair. Google the problem or ask a friend knowledgeable in cars.
    • logan074, on 05/07/2008, -1/+7If we learn enough you will be out of the job, you should be happy for the incompetence.
    • gryphon50, on 05/07/2008, -1/+4yes, and we should know about our computers, our houses if we own one, appliances...where does the list end? People have their own jobs to do, they can't know everything.
    • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -1/+6There are basic things all car owners should know. Change the tires, check the oil, check the tire pressure. Those type of things.

      You should have knowledge on how to change the oil and radiator fluid and know the signs that your breaks are getting low. You should also know how to perform a jump start. Beyond that you can't expect the average person to know the mechanical working of an auto.
    • Daiken, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4People have an idea of generally how a car works and what normal operation looks like. What happens when a component breaks down is NOT general knowledge and that's what mechanics rely on. For each problem a car has, you could have a dozen causes, and people just don't have the time or experience to learn everything.
  • zhaoguyou, on 05/07/2008, -6/+0good
  • gtluke, on 05/07/2008, -1/+70i was a mechanic for 9.5 years.
    my addition is basically you never have to change your coolant/antifreeze. it lasts a long time, and 98% of the time you'll have a water pump/radiator/hose blow, which requires the draining and filling of your coolant. this will almost always happen before your antifreeze ever goes "bad"
    please ignore me if you live in like alaska, where coolant freezing temps are critical

    oh, and never buy fram oil filters. they are the worst ones on the market yet they have convinced the country that they are a better product. stick with wix or purolator. a great deal is the motorcraft filters at walmart, they are reboxed purolators. napa gold filters are reboxed wix, also a great deal.
    • DeathJux, on 05/07/2008, -0/+11This is the sort of insider, or expert, knowledge that is valuable and difficult to find. Thanks.
    • TheEclipse, on 05/07/2008, -0/+6My dealership mechanic try to screw me on the antifreeze change. The asshole -who looked and sounded EXACTLY like Penn from Penn & Teller- kept pushing it on me. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to cars, but I remembered back to when I had to spray dryflowers down with antifreeze when I was a kid. That stuff stayed in hot sheds for decades and never went bad.
      • Jude007, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5Wasn't really subject to extreme changes in temperature or pressure was it? Most people use very poor quality anti-freeze/coolant. Better quality stuff has cleaning and anti-corrosion effects, that can prevent deterioration of the head. Like most things in life, prevention is easier than cure.
      • schnikies79, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4I don't know about your particular situation, but antifreeze does need to be changed every few years. It breaks down and gets contaminated.
      • realchris, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5Maybe Penn is doing an episode of "*****" about ripoff mechanics.
    • Marvelboy, on 05/07/2008, -0/+6You've never seen my '95 Jetta. It leaks coolant like that was it's purpose in life.
      • Jude007, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2You could try a anti-leak additive, if it's a small hole. I had a Golf gti which used a lot of water, it cured it right up.
    • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -2/+3You're wrong about anti freeze. Failure to change out glycol antifreeze yearly will corrode your radiator. I'm driving a 92 Taurus and have never had a radiator leak or blown hose in it. But I replace my anti-freeze every year. Coincidence?

      The new type will last 5 years and is typically colored red.
      • awuwish, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1And is more animal/environment friendly than the green stuff.
      • screensnot, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3Right. I don't think the ethylene glycol breaks down, but the rust inhibitors do. And it will get contaminated.

        Newer engines with all aluminum heads/ blocks may not have as much problem, but those of us old enough to have driven cars with iron in them, know that brown coolant is not good.
      • MateyO, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Abomonog's statement is incorrect. If a car maintains containment, and isn't in a severe duty situation, Anti-freeze should be replaced once in it's life...when maintenance of the cooling system dictates draining it.

        Radiator corrosion is pretty much 1:1 matched with not using distilled water. The Glycol/Ethylene mix doesn't do it, it's got an anti-corrosion package to prevent it. The manufacturer uses Plain Jane water outof the faucet for that first fill. ***because they don't expect you to change the water*** If you get a leak, and start topping it off with whatever you can find, then yes, you'll get corrosion.

        Otherwise, when you see that needle spending a lot of time higher than you remember (you watch your gages, don't you?) or you're finding that you're topping off the system, GET IT FIXED.

        Read your owner's manual. Change your oil (It's not cheaper, it just gives you time once or twice a year, to take stock in the condition of the REST of the car.) And do a brake job.

        Brake Jobs were my gateway drug to fixing cars. I can say at this point that it led to a great hobby, uncountless thousands saved over the years, and none of the stress this article mentions. Every stripped bolt on my cars was done by me...That makes me want to be careful, replaces with good components, and I know _everything_ about my cars.

        Have a beater. You have your new hotness. Drive it when the weather's nice. A 6 year old, low milage car costs very little, adds little to your monthly expenses, and greatly reduces the stress of having a car repair.
    • miket, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2stick a multimeter in your coolant, if its generating a voltage, theres a neat little reaction happening.....
      • toebitus, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1and it is slowly eating away at the metal from the inside,your coolent turns into one big battery,the g.m. mech.s know what that garbage does to g.m. cars..dont leave dexcool in for longer than 20,000 miles..also the alum. rad.s will corrode and stop up..its all over the forems
    • brad3378, on 05/11/2008, -0/+1I have to disagree with you. (I'm an ASE certified Master Mechanic and a Mechanical Engineer so hear me out)
      There's such a big controversy about GM Dexron coolant becoming degraded that there's a class action lawsuit going on.
      And when it comes to conventional Ethylene glycol coolants, there's more to fluid degradation than just the freezing temperature. Other considerations are lubrication properties, rust inhibitors, pH, mineral build up over time inside the water jacket, heat transfer properties, and what I call "Crusties" which I seem to run across mostly in partially filled systems.

      I agree on the Fram oil filters (although I do like those built in grippers)
      And I'd add my personal favorite product to hate: Champion Spark Plugs (with Copper electrode).
      In my experience, the insulators seem to crack too easily and the electrodes seem to erode too quickly.
  • psykiv, on 05/07/2008, -7/+26Buried as inaccurate. No mention of headlight fluid.
    • bhavinp, on 05/07/2008, -5/+1Wow, you must've had a terrible mechanic.
      • psykiv, on 05/07/2008, -2/+3What I meant was... If a mechanic mentions headlight fluid... RUN.
      • lamiaconfitor, on 05/07/2008, -1/+5Its a joke, stupid.
    • marx2k, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1What about steering pads or passenger-side curtains?
    • drakelarson, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0Dont forget about the all important exhaust bearings
    • ADA531, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1That's because you can only change it with a left-handed wrench set.
  • Serveck, on 05/07/2008, -1/+25this is why i do my own work on my cars, as a technically inclined person i have learned a ton by just picking up a wrench and a diagram, a hell of a lot cheaper too.
    • DeathJux, on 05/07/2008, -0/+10Only if your time is worth less to you than what you'd spend to have someone else do it, or you value the knowledge gained more than the time spent.

      I've worked on my own cars too, for minor things (I've never had the tools/shop for major repairs), but it always takes me ages longer to get anything done than if I were to bring it to a shop. This was generally throughout High School/University, as I haven't really had time nowadays.
      • Tomchei, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5It comes down to experience and tools. If I have to spend $100+ on tools to learn the experience and I don't have the time, I'll take it in.
        • Antwan718, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1You can save your money though next time, since you already own the tools needed in order to complete the job you wont need to pay somone else to do your labor.
      • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2Changing brake pads and rotors can often be done on the cheap and very quickly. I rather do that than wait at the shop for an hour and a half. If you don't wait then you waste your time being jockeyed back and forth.
  • MassMopar, on 05/07/2008, -0/+64Cars are like computers. They seem complicated but they're really not once you spend a small amount of effort to learn. There will always be some things that you won't be able to do yourself if you don't have the proper equipment, but the vast majority of maintenance your car needs can be done at home for cheap. If you're not paying for someone else's labor and markup on cheap parts, you can do it yourself, use the expensive, made-in-America part, and still come out cheaper. You should always do your own oil changes, even if it's "only 20 bucks" to get it done at the local jiffy-lube. Too many horror stories about stripped drain plugs to count, and they fill your engine back up with the cheapest bulk oil money can buy. Find a message board about your make/model online and keep tabs on when (what mileage) major things need to be replaced, and how much they should cost, and you won't be surprised. Hell you might even learn how to do it yourself and save a few hundred.
    • DeathJux, on 05/07/2008, -6/+2Cars are like computers, they ARE complicated, hence why people pay other people to fix/maintain them. Yes, learning about them will benefit you, but it's not something everyone CAN do or even WANTS to do, as many people don't have the mental capacity to learn much about either.

      If you have the time and capability, learning about any highly complex system (human body, cars, computers, law) will benefit you significantly, but many people don't have the time nor the inclination.
      • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -0/+10I work on both and cars are actually more difficult to work on than computers. You don't need a hydrolic jack to get the motherboard out of a computer.
        • lamiaconfitor, on 05/07/2008, -1/+3they require more tools and energy, but they aren't more complicated ;)
          • Heywoodj, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3I beg to differ sir. You can't hide a borked hard drive from me no matter were the manufacturer has put it in their rig and it's standard and interchangeable no matter who made it.
            Now the placement of the thermostat on a car varies wildly from manufacturer to manufacturer. And no one in town will have one for your car when you need one.
            Computer hardware is so much easier to deal with then car parts and your dealing with a lot more separate systems in a car as well
          • lamiaconfitor, on 05/07/2008, -1/+2It is different but no more complicated... are you really that lost?I mean if you see a heat sink moved from one point to another are you really that freaked out? I hope not. maybe you are... then you should go to a certified mechanic to repair your PC. BTW the lost hard drive is in another hard drive, that is why you are confused.... magic does not exist.
          • Heywoodj, on 05/08/2008, -1/+1I'm confused?
            You've never even changed a tire on a car have you son?
    • brad3378, on 05/11/2008, -0/+1I'll do just about anything in my garage: Engine swaps, Transmission rebuilds, etc. but to be honest, I have started paying to get my oil changed because it only costs about $20 more than if I did it myself and I don't have to risk spilling a gallon of used motor oil in my trunk when I return it for recycling. Frankly, I think a $30 ten minute oil change is a bargain compared to shuffling cars around in my driveway, moving ***** around in the garage, making a special trip to the auto parts store for the floor-dry and oil filter I forgot to buy, driving back home, changing clothes, changing the oil, cleaning the oil I spilled that my dog is now walking in, washing the dog, showering, spending 20 minutes cleaning my fingernails, pouring the used oil in suitable containers (without making another mess) to take back to the store, etc. There's a reason why you don't see many old-timers changing oil for a living - it sucks and it doesn't pay well.

      The point I'm trying to make is that you should always place a value on your free time.
      I'd rather pay somebody to do the dirty work so I can spend more time doing more fun work like playing around with my welder.
  • ligyron, on 05/07/2008, -10/+9As a mechanic, this article isn't all that accurate or noteworthy. Some points are made, some didn't need to be made, and some are ridiculous
    2. "Always ask for your old parts back. This way you'll know they've been changed, and you or a friend can tell if they're worn."
    8. "Don't bring your car in on Friday afternoon, because the mechanics might rush the job to get out for the weekend."
    Paranoid much? This will never happen unless you brought your vehicle to some huge dump, even then I have my doubts. I'm in such a rush to start my weekend that I'm not going to waste time fully tightening the bolts?
    • Shatneresque, on 05/07/2008, -2/+1Well then, as a mechanic, you should know that many states (including California) actually have laws requiring shops to return changed parts if the customer asks.
    • BCCartman, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2As a former Mechanic (not my main job any more) also, I think that the ridiculous part of number 2 is "and you or a friend can tell if they're worn" If you or your friend could tell that then you would probably have done the job your self or "know" that the work need doing in the first place.
      • SACubeMonkey, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1I disagree. I could easily tell if a belt had wear on it and needed to be replaced but I don't have the skills to actually get in there and replace it.
  • TheMachine1, on 05/07/2008, -3/+5
    1. "If a mechanic offers to change your timing belt and water pump, question how long the job will take. Some will charge you double labor even though the second task is essentially done once the belt is removed."

    It depends on the car in most cases timing belt replacement is a completely separate belt system and removing one or the other in no way speeds removal of the other.

    2. "Always ask for your old parts back. This way you'll know they've been changed, and you or a friend can tell if they're worn."

    Alot parts such as a water pump would have a core charge from the auto parts store.
    So at most you should ask to see it not keep it. Anyway the mechanic could show you anything.

    3. "Be careful with "road hazard" warranties on tires. The shops may give you a free tire here and there, but eventually they will soak you with unnecessary alignments or suspension replacements."

    Alot tire shops are crooks.

    4. "All brakes are not equal; ask for estimates on brake jobs. Many mechanics will use very cheap parts and mark them up. Good mechanics who understand cars will never skimp in this area."

    Most mechanics make their money on labour. They get jobber price on parts which is allready alot cheaper than teh average joe can get at the parts house.

    13. "The market is being flooded with cheap parts from China. Request a name-brand replacement and ask to see its box."

    Part stores usually offer a low price point brand that is usually a bad value. Good mechanic do not want to have problems and usually choose the brands they trust.
    • motogoat, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1"Alot tire shops are crooks."
      Not where I live. You can check to see their cost and what they charge you above that. They'll rotate your tires for free every so many miles, they offer that warranty at a small cost and it comes in handy. I've had 2 screws in new tires that I bought 2 months ago and they've given me two new tires each time because the damage was too bad to patch.
  • wwnexc, on 05/07/2008, -9/+4That's crappy advice. I can get a brake job with parts and labor for 100 dollars, and the guy is still making money. I don't want to spend top dollar for expensive break pads when the cheap ones (7-15 bucks each) work just as fine.
    • burnstyle, on 05/07/2008, -0/+11because stopping isnt your main concern?
    • psykiv, on 05/07/2008, -1/+25On some things, it's OK to skimp on. BRAKES ARE NOT SOMETHING YOU WANT TO SKIMP ON.
      • screensnot, on 05/07/2008, -2/+3For $250,000, I can make some custom brakes with ceramic rotors for your Dodge Neon.

        No sale? Are you sure? Brakes are one area you don't want to skimp on.
        • psykiv, on 05/07/2008, -2/+1a. I don't drive a Neon.
          b. One thing is not skimping. Another thing is being completely wasteful.
    • logan074, on 05/07/2008, -0/+23Screw brakes. They only slow you down.
    • motogoat, on 05/07/2008, -0/+11WHOA! I hope that I don't meet up with you at the local intersection!
    • gr3yn3t, on 05/07/2008, -0/+6Hey, I agree with him.

      I did my own brakes, and the mid-grade pads cost about $20 per axle. A good mechanic can do an axle in 30-45 mins.
      So that's an hourly rate of $60..
    • lamiaconfitor, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2The primary function of an automobile is to stop. everything else is a plus. If you do the job yourself, it should cost at least 100 bucks, depending on what the issue is.
      • Kzoo, on 05/07/2008, -1/+3Sorry, I feel like quibbling today. The primary function of an automobile is to -move things from one place to another-. Safely doing this relies on the ability to stop at will.
        • lamiaconfitor, on 05/07/2008, -1/+2Then you , sir, are an Idiot. the idea of any moving apperatus is the ability to stop when human life is at risk. STFU. Force should be met with responsibility. at any time.
    • InsaneOni, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Decent pads cost about $60 an axle. Hawk HPS ftw.
      • MetalPig, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0Hawk HPS are not decent pads - they are awesome pads. I agree with other posters. Decent pads that will cover every situation short of track racing only cost ~$20 per axle. It's very easy to be under $100, including labor, on the average car if you only need pads and the rest of your brake equipment is in working order.
  • luke374, on 05/07/2008, -0/+23I took my car into a sun devil auto yesterday because the engine light was on. They wanted to charge me over $1000. So I called the dealer I bought the car from a month ago, and he just fixed it today at cost for $60. Success!
    • garyinthehouse, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4why where they going to charge over 1K for a $60 job?
    • deadsenator, on 05/07/2008, -1/+26A piece of electrical tape over the light would have been even cheaper!
    • lamiaconfitor, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4If you had a warranty (assuming thats why you got such a serious discount, that or you bought a used car and it wasnt even close to your fault...) why would you think about taking it to a mechanic first?
    • luke374, on 05/07/2008, -1/+6Basically, they wanted to fix a bunch of stuff that wasn't actually broken. I bought the car from a small used car dealership, without a warrenty, and he was just being nice.
      • lamiaconfitor, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Then you sir... are an idiot. (no offense intended.) Simply "implied...." you may assume implied warranty. "Implied warranty" has a legal precedent, and you may assume there is a minimum standard of operation assumed upon receipt. 9/10 courts will side with the purchaser. have fun siding with the sheister that sold you a junker!
    • barnett25, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1That is almost always an O2 sensor. No big deal, just makes it use more gas. (On second thought, these days that is a big deal)
    • brad3378, on 05/11/2008, -0/+2Most Autozone stores will "Rent" you a code scanner so you can clear out your own codes.
      Basically you buy the scanner and return it for the full price - no questions asked - just SAVE YOUR RECEIPT.

      Many other Autoparts stores will walk right out to your car and scan it for you because they're hoping you will buy replacement parts from them.
  • namelessXsilent, on 05/07/2008, -0/+15they could probably give me my car back the same way i brought it in and i MAY not even notice it
  • OffPiste, on 05/07/2008, -26/+2Mechanics=working class, no college, thieves.

    • KillSudo, on 05/07/2008, -0/+11You obviously seem to overlook how much specialty different vehicles carry. Mechanics go to trade school just like electricians and plumbers and you need a damn good understanding of car electronics and how to read diagrams. You need to know how to efficiently work on cars just like dentists otherwise you won't make money.
    • theetoecutter, on 05/07/2008, -2/+10.....So a no college "mechanic" equalls a thief ,huh ? ..... *****.
      Like a wild animal can smell blood , we can smell that attitude from a mile away.

      We prey on you.

      See you at the Jiffy Lube ,

      Sucker.
      • motogoat, on 05/07/2008, -1/+3In all honestly, the average person doesn't think of a 'mechanic' when they think of Jiffy Lube. You don't go to Jiffy Lube for major repairs. Just for little tweaks. When I think mechanic, I think of $70.00 per hour at my local dealership.
    • motogoat, on 05/07/2008, -2/+1Are you a Hillary supporter by any chance? McCain, maybe?
      Get off your high horse...I hope you get stranded somewhere with a broken down car and end up in a deep South, Deliverance style orgy at the hand of a group of 20 mechanics.
      • OffPiste, on 05/07/2008, -5/+1No I'm an arugula eating Obama supporter. Mechanics are just part of the bitter lowerclass that cling to guns and religion.


        Vote Obama!!!!!!!
  • Jude007, on 05/07/2008, -9/+414. Always buy a really bad condition second hand car, with good body work and a sound engine preferably a turbo diesel. Then replace all the brakes, all the suspension (preferably for German made sports units with a 60mm in the front and 40mm in the back drop) for that aggressive slammed look, change the oil and filter (after flushing of course), fix any electrical problems, fix wheel bearings, fix CV boots, change entire upholstery and door cards for ones you like, and fit an Alpine stereo, hey presto, great ride ! Well, it works for me.
    • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Thats not what a mechanic does. That's what a tuner does. :)
  • antonio97b, on 05/07/2008, -1/+2I don't agree with the break issue really. I mean, if you are _requesting_ special brake bads and rotors with super special fluid... Which I don't think you will take advantage of if you're asking someone else to install them. I find that Duralast pads/shoes and rotors are just fine and the pads costs 17.99 a pair (for ceramic ones) and rotors costs 59.99 (Valuecraft are even cheaper) each. Some of the cheapest you can find.
    People spend far too much on brakes. These are the same people who buy NGK Iridum IX plautum 4 point spark plugs or whatever.
    • deadsenator, on 05/07/2008, -1/+7"People spend far too much on brakes."

      Yah, it's not like they are important or anything...
      • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -2/+3Cheap brakes work great. Brake pads aren't all that complicated and there is often little difference between the cheap and expensive. Saving money on them doesn't make them less important.
      • NucleaRR, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2Yeah I used to think that if you spent a lot of money on your brakes that you were doing yourself a great service. However after buying expensive pads that are "lifetime" type pads I experienced heavy grooves in my rotors. People told me that the pads were to hard for the rotors. So I bought the better more expensive rotors as well. Problems still occurred this time it was warping the rotors. This was after matching rotor and pads from the same manufacturer were installed. I was changing my breaks out about every nine months to include rotor and pads. Normally it would just be the pads and a rotor turn. So in frustration with this and loss of money. I had a friend who works at a dealer find out what the OEM replacements were. I now use the mid range $25 dollar pads and the rotor get turn at every brake change. So, Yes brakes are important but not blowing the bank on unnecessary "lifetime/expensive" parts is equally important.
    • sweetwater88, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Always inspect the rotors personally, most of the time they just need to be shaved. If your mechanic says you need new rotors every time ask to see the rotors and check the thickness and if any warping is visible. Also check the brand of the pads, Wearever Silvers are generally a good choice: excellent quality and low price but avoid overpriced pads or super cheap pads.
      • lucutus, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Imagine the joy of watching Mr. Goodwrench removing hard spots from your rotors with a Gillette MACH4 and some shaving cream!

        Rotors get turned on a lathe not "shaved". This has been common practice for years but these days it is not usually practical more than once per rotor. If you have cooked your rotor to the point of warpage and or hard spots, turning them is only going to stave off replacement for a short time. Once they have been warped and then turned there are now differences in thickness that will rapidly warp the rotor again. The tollerences varry of course but turning will allways equal thinner rotors which will warp sooner. With the high cost of labor and the low cost of parts this should be an option but by no means is advising replacement over turning an indication of a bad mechanic.
        • NucleaRR, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0Except that all rotors have tolerances that they are allowed to get to before warping will occur. So having your rotors turned is always more practical. Unless of course you drive like it a racecar and you eat up brakes quick. I can have my rotors turned for five dollars a piece or spend $65 dollars on new ones. Not everyone owns a small car with cheap parts. My brother-in-laws rotors are $85 a piece. Try telling him to just buy new everytime.
    • blackgt93, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1It depends on the vehicle. Do your research, period. My 94 Land Cruiser has a cheap pad option, but if I use the cheap pads they are gone in literally 15K miles thanks to the lower quality. Stopping a 6600 lb vehicle is no laughing matter so I go out of my way to buy genuine Toyota parts all the time. I trust the engineers at Toyota more than I do the guys just building parts that "fit". Plus I figure the engineers know more about that stuff than I do and they designed the parts a certain way for a reason.
    • nofrendo, on 05/08/2008, -0/+0With super special fluid? Dude brake fluid is brake fluid, as long as you have the right type (DOT3, 4, 5, whatever) The point is that mechanics don't want to put their shops reputation on the line by skimping on parts. If you're working on your own car, that's ok to do, acknowledging the fact that you may end up with half a pad broken off in a week or so (not literally...). I just use raybestos personally. The fact is that a properly maintained brake booster/master cylinder/flex hoses/caliper pistons will do you a hell of a lot more good for braking power than any kind of special pads or rotors. That and proper bleeding and adjustment for drums.
  • redtaboo, on 05/07/2008, -0/+7I work for a autoparts warehouse and it always amazes me when people order the "priceline" brakes, though there is a HUGE drop in price. Also amazing how many only buy one shock...... if one is worn out, the other can't be far behind!
    • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3It is not so much that the other shock is going to wear out soon but more so that you have different levels of shock adsorption on either side of the car. This can greatly effect handling and braking.
  • jetblackz4, on 05/07/2008, -0/+9Don't forget to change your horn fluid.
  • Nrvana423, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3At least it wasn't another "10 things" list
  • brosauce, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3good article. i usually do my own upkeep my Taco(ma), but i take it in for things that can't be done in the parking lot of my apartments, like alignments. and i usually stick around and watch them do it since most places require a scheduled drop-off. i've been hosed once before when i took it in to get it aligned after i put on a brand new set of BF A-Ts, a $500 set! and after about a month they were ate up! all thanks to a botched (or non-existent) alignment. so that's kind of my two cents; watch them do the alignment. i know that some places might get edgy, but i stay out of the way. usually peering through a window.

    ex, or current mechanics? does that kind of stuff bug you?
    • ricksite, on 05/07/2008, -0/+3I was an alignment technician for a few years in college. One thing that confuses customers is when we would require their front end be solid before we can perform the alignment. You can't properly align a car with loose tie rods or ball joints. It is an up-sale opportunity and that is why many shops do alignments. If you don't get the front end fixed, don't waste money on the alignment.
    • handsomehellvis, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1it bugs me because most of these lists are just silly. ive never heard of anyone taking the time to drop a trans pan and get all dirty just to fill it with crap and try and sell you stuff. if your trans shifts like crap, its possible the pan IS full of crap. but basically, like anything else in life, if you go to a shady dump just to save a few bucks, you're gonna get what you pay for.
    • nofrendo, on 05/08/2008, -0/+0From a current mechanic: DON'T WATCH US DO ALIGNMENTS!!! Haha, no but really, an alignment can be one of the most frustrating things to do on a vehicle, depending on the vehicle. Trucks aren't so bad, but cars... oh man. It usually ends in heavy cursing if not a little blood. It's because there are 6 things that you have to get within spec, and each time you adjust one, all the other ones get ***** up again. Make sure to tell them any suspension mods you have done! because the computer tells us what the spec is and it's not like we're going to question it usually... And if you have mods on there then your car is now out of spec. Alignment errors, by the way, won't usually mess up your suspension: you'll see it in uneven tire wear and/or steering far before it would have an effect on any suspension wear.
  • motogoat, on 05/07/2008, -4/+5It's a shame that there are so many scamming mechanics out there. I thought I found a good one; I trusted him and he seemed to explain everything, etc. But then I caught him telling me that I had a cracked head, offered me a 2,000 estimate to fix it and told me that if I didn't have it fixed asap that I'd end up broken down and stranded soon.
    That was about 3 years and 30,000 miles ago. The dude was a ***** liar. I had smoke coming out of my exhaust because of a radiator problem that had absolutely nothing to do with the head.
    • FukUrCouch, on 05/07/2008, -0/+10It makes you wonder how water can get into the exhaust. If you have white smoke coming out of the exhaust it usually means a cracked head. It could be a gasket on the intake but most mechanics will tell you the same thing.
    • SillyRabbits, on 05/07/2008, -0/+8Well, your mechanic MAY have been a liar. However, that really is a symptom of a cracked head. How do you think coolant gets into the combustion chamber (and then the exhaust)?
    • drakelarson, on 05/07/2008, -2/+0You had smoke coming out of your exhaust because you were burning oil... most likely from the crack in your head. There were probably other problems too.
    • barnett25, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2Radiator problems don't cause smoke out the exhaust. The only way the exhaust and radiator are connected is by a leaky head gasket, or cracked (or warped) head.
  • byrdgang, on 05/07/2008, -2/+2I should learn how to do oil changes, but how much would I really save? I spend about $20 on oil changes using a coupon at Goodyear. If the oil itself is $10 or more, I'd only be saving ten bucks. I could get a part time job if I wanted to save ten bucks about every three months (or ~3000 miles).

    Besides, getting grease on yourself, lifting the car, etc. is too much trouble. If it was as easy as putting gas in the car, I'd do it. Going beneath the car for ten bucks sounds like a stretch to me (and I am very cheap).
    • Infidelcastr0, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Do it, working on your own car is fun and rewarding regardless of savings. That and you can specify what parts you use.
    • Jude007, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Oil change is very easy, you don't even need to jack the car up. Plus if you do it yourself you can make sure of the quality of oil you use. Most gear heads use fully synthetic or semi-synthetic, $20 change will buy you only mineral oil, ie no real benefit.
    • Porch, on 05/07/2008, -2/+1A lot of the quick lube places don't do anything. Some TV station did a report and found that 3 out of 5 quick lube shops didn't do a thing. Still think you are saving money?
    • hoozer, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1But you also know that it was done right. I had a friend that got a $20 oil change, and the next time I see her car there is some oil dripping. Turned out they didn't have the oil filter on tight enough.
    • gr3yn3t, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1Ask what kind of oil they are using. For the same price, you could use something a bit better like penzoil (or even synthetic!).

      Obviously, it seems like they've been doing a fine job, but I choose to do it myself because so many shops use ***** oil, tell you to buy misc. filters and services you don't need and fail to do thing like grease wheel bearings. In fact, one place nearly stripped out my oil pan before I started doing it myself. If you find a good oil change place, stick with it, but it's a bit of a risk for me.

      • Alathea, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1Even better is the 10.00 my friends pay me for my time if they get the materials. I have a lot of artsy friends that don't know cars (or computers). I do some of their car work for them, an oil change here, help with an alternator there, and it adds up, plus they learn something along the way as well.
      • AndyStitzer, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2Your friends should pay you in beer
  • Infidelcastr0, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5By far the best way to save money on automotive service is to do it yourself.
  • ringo78, on 05/07/2008, -1/+4Well it is an OK list, I am a freelance mechanic going on 7 years. Trust me, if I am just changing break pads and I charge you 100 dollars, I am making money. As long as the Calipers are not frozen and I clean the hardware with some emery paper I am still doing a top notch job. Sometimes it is not just the quality of the part that matter but the quality of the work. I mean if you do not know what you are doing you can mess up even more, and them most people will just blame it on the parts as an easy scape goat. Oh and another thing, most of the time you can not get your original parts back. You need to turn those suckers in for core charge.
    • miket, on 05/07/2008, -1/+0why does everyone spell it break? especially those that claim to be mechanics?
    • nofrendo, on 05/08/2008, -0/+0Just make sure you are cracking the bleeder screw when you compress those caliper pistons!! Otherwise you are probably ***** up that person's ABS!
  • dupeduperson, on 05/07/2008, -0/+15When I go to a mechanic, I know what a person that brings their computer to Geek Squad must feel like.
    Geek Squad: "looks like a bad hard drive. You are going to need the drive replaced, our special reinstall service and data transfer service."
    Mechanic: "looks like a bad compression cuff on your transmission....You will need a replace that, flush the transmission fluid and clean all the bugs off the window."

    I really have no clue if the mechanic is lying or not. I guess I should start studying cars.
    • WTFisBehindYou, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0Except a bad compression cuff doesn't make loud clicking noises when it stops working...oh wait, or does it? :(
  • FAHQ2, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4Don't forget to change out your Johnson Rod!.

    But seriously, i didn't learn anything from that list that i did not already know.
    Most of this is just common sense to many people.
    As others have said above,, if you drive a car, its probably worthwhile at least knowing the basics of how a car works.
    It still surprises me how people use things like cars, computers, and tech in general, and yet have no interest in learning how things work.
    • Zaneris, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1Same thing with microwave ovens, there's not many who have a clue, some are even surprised that it uses something called microwaves that actually exist.
  • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -9/+9Well since this is about my job.

    1. "If a mechanic offers to change your timing belt and water pump, question how long the job will take. Some will charge you double labor even though the second task is essentially done once the belt is removed."

    Actually, not always. You can lock the timing of a car to remove the timing belt but on some models you also have to remove the cam gears and tensioner gear to get to the water pump. Don't expect the mechanic to do that and re-time your car for free. In fact getting the valves re-timed with the pistons will cost you over a hundred dollars alone.

    2. "Always ask for your old parts back. This way you'll know they've been changed, and you or a friend can tell if they're worn."

    Yes, and expect to pay the core charges on those parts too. Up to $200 dollars core for some parts. Better to just ask to see them.

    3. "Be careful with "road hazard" warranties on tires. The shops may give you a free tire here and there, but eventually they will soak you with unnecessary alignments or suspension replacements."

    Avoid this by using one place to buy your tires and another to do your other work. Conversely, If you happen to face state inspections, never let the inspecting shop do the work. If you have an older car though you're *****. You can expect to fail inspection even if your car really passes. They will make up ***** if they have to and the state will back them up. Once your car hits about 150k you may as well register it out of state or park it until it antiques.


    4. "All brakes are not equal; ask for estimates on brake jobs. Many mechanics will use very cheap parts and mark them up. Good mechanics who understand cars will never skimp in this area."

    I have one name for you. Bendix. Remember it when you get your pads and you'll never go wrong.

    5. "Remember to have your car test-driven. A good test-drive is just as important as a regular service -- it might mean the difference between simply needing brake pads and having a complete rotor replacement."

    You should always replace your rotors with your pads. On most models the extra charge is minimal and it is required by law in at least Virginia. Most states that have inspections will not pass cars with machined rotors. However, you can extend your rotors service time indefinitely
    by remembering one rule. Listen to your breaks. If they start sounding like a rat with laryngitis its time for new pads. Get them quickly and you won't need new rotors.

    6. "Good mechanics, like good customers, are hard to find -- communication is key. A good mechanic will explain repair phases and give you choices."

    I don't know what he means by "repair phases" but we do explain procedures and provide options where possible at our shop. We also photograph major work as it's done. Be sure to ask for this.

    7. "Be wary of certified pre-owned cars. Usually in this business the only thing that's certified is that someone owned the car before you. Very little ever gets done on these types of cars."

    Ignore the "pre-certification" entirely. Check the car models reputation. Be sure it has a logged repair history and know the dealerships reputation. Pre-certification is *****.

    8. "Don't bring your car in on Friday afternoon, because the mechanics might rush the job to get out for the weekend."

    More likely you'll have to wait 2 days to get a job done that would have only taken one if you brought it in on Monday. Most shops are open Saturday anyways but if it's a private shop usually the beer is flowing in the afternoons on both days (not to mention the things that waft). Best to call first on any day.

    9. "Beware of a mechanic who shows you a transmission pan with metal particles in it, and recommends a major job. The shavings are usually a sign of normal wear."
    Depends on the transmission. A tranny that is working well usually needs no work at all despite what the fluid looks like. At most a fluid change with one caviat. Never change the fluid on any tranny displaying the shavings. Doing so will almost guarantee a failure in a month from the change. Most older American cars do show shavings in the fluid as a normal sign of wear after about 150k miles but shavings in a variable shift tranny is a sure sign of death.

    10. "Before buying new tires, know what your state's tread specifications are. Then have the mechanic measure the old tread with a gauge."

    Look between the treads of your tires for a ridge that appears about every 8 inches or so on the surface of the tires. If the top of that ridge is even with your tread surface then your tire fails specs in every state in America. In some states you are required to keep a 1/32 inch clearance from the top of the ridge to the tread but the difference is nothing.

    11. "Watch out for ads promising $100 brake jobs. No mechanic can make money on that."

    That's because the $100 brake job represents the labor. You still got to buy the parts.
    And $100 is about right for labor on a full brake and rotor job. If you can get pads done alone you can often talk the guy down about $40 for the labor if your wise about it.

    Half *****. The flush is really just a drain and fill(the flush part is a lie), but not doing it at 60k miles will void your powertrain warranty on many models with 100k warranties. A good shop will do it for around $40 to $50.

    13. "The market is being flooded with cheap parts from China. Request a name-brand replacement and ask to see its box."

    Complete *****. I have yet to see anything Chinese on any model other than a Kia (any they're North Korean anyways) Stick with Pep Boys, Napa or any other trusted parts store and avoid the cheapest parts and you won't have any troubles. That being said government saftey regulations won't allow the kind of cheapness the author is alluding to. The days of the Yugo and the Gremlin are long gone. Auto makers are now faced with mandated life and safety expectancies that didn't exist 25 years ago when it was actually Japan and not China flooding our market with cheap crap parts for American cars. The Chinese were into sneakers back then.


    Oh, and one more thing. Never take advice from Readers Digest.

    • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -5/+312 got trounced for some reason.

      12. "Transmission flushes are one of the biggest scams going. Manufacturers don't recommend them, and your car almost never needs one."


      Half *****. The flush is really just a drain and fill(the flush part is a lie), but not doing it at 60k miles will void your powertrain warranty on many models with 100k warranties. A good shop will do it for around $40 to $50.

      Sry.
    • dhughes, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2> 5. "Remember to have your car test-driven. A good test-drive is just as important as a regular service -- it might mean the difference between simply >needing brake pads and having a complete rotor replacement."
      >
      >You should always replace your rotors with your pads. On most models the extra charge is minimal and it is required by law in at least Virginia. Most >states that have inspections will not pass cars with machined rotors. However, you can extend your rotors service time indefinitely
      >by remembering one rule. Listen to your breaks. If they start sounding like a rat with laryngitis its time for new pads. Get them quickly and you won't need >new rotors.

      Well I wouldn't say every time that's a bit too much ;) but I'd keep an eye on them.
      But certainly I agree replacing the rotors is a smart thing to do instead of machining them, it's a waste of time, besides the cost of new rotors versus the effort of machining them makes it worth it to buy new rotors. Machined rotors have less mass and are not as good at dissipating heat, they're of course thinner too.
      Since your in the neighbourhood a good tip is to make sure the piston is free, it can be overlooked.
    • Kzoo, on 05/07/2008, -1/+0"6. "Good mechanics, like good customers, are hard to find -- communication is key. A good mechanic will explain repair phases and give you choices."
      I don't know what he means by "repair phases" but we do explain procedures and provide options where possible at our shop. We also photograph major work as it's done. Be sure to ask for this."

      Definitely important. One thing that used to really bug me about the place I usually go (was my dad's choice) was one particular older man there in the office who would talk down to me because I'm female. When he left, things got better there as far as I'm concerned, as the younger man who seems to be more prominent in the office now and the newer guy both talk to me like an (gender-neutral) adult (and paying customer. . .). I admit little (but not no) knowledge, my interests and specific knowledge lie elsewhere. . . but to assume I can't even -understand- based on that distinction is completely wrong.
    • lucutus, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2Dugg for Bendix! But Pep Boys?!?! are you ***** serious?
      • nofrendo, on 05/08/2008, -0/+0+1 Try your local auto parts warehouse
    • WTFisBehindYou, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0only dugg for reader's digest comment
    • nofrendo, on 05/08/2008, -0/+0I machine rotors every day, they are meant to be machined! That's why manufacturers release huge lists of minimum thickness and machine-to thickness specifications!!! A ***** machine job, though, will ***** up your rotors... But as far as braking, it's just a matter of a little more brake fluid sitting in the caliper pistons. You're really only taking about .1mm off (depending on wear) each time you do it
  • Jennadickes, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2The transmission flush one is really interesting. My mechanic told me that I need one but I've been holding off since it's 120 dollars.
    I have a 2001 Toyota Solara, can anyone give any advice on whether or not I should trust the article?
    • ringo78, on 05/07/2008, -1/+2the only thing a flush does is when you change you trans fluid it gets all of it out, even the fluid that is in the lines and in the radiator. If you fluid is black and nasty looking and it bothers you I would just drop the pan and change the filter. That will change at least 4 to 5 quarts, they usually hold about 7 to 8 if you empty out the torque converter and such, but this will dilute the nasty stuff with the new fluid and then the BRAND NEW FILTER with help with the rest of the sludge. Then you can see if there are any large chunks of metal in your pan, flakes, not a big deal, large chunks, very big deal. So in other words I would just drop the pan and change the filter and the fluid, much better bargen and look in the pan if you can yourself. I hope that helps
      • Jennadickes, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2Thanks, I'm going to have a friend look closer at it tomorrow to see how dirty it is. When I checked it it was a light color with tiny specs. But then I haven't checked since I drove to Miami (400 mi there and back) so it might be a little worse with all the heat.
        Thanks for the advice =)
    • leazarus, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4My mechanic used a product called "Seafoam" recently as part of a transmission flush, which actually fixed some slipping that had just started and saved me from a transmission rebuild. Saved me a bunch of $$$

      Also, how are you having any problem whatsoever with a 2001 Toyota? You shouldn't have to do anything but change the oil in that thing for like another 10-20 years.
      • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1Didn't save you squat. He just prolonged the inevitable. If the tranny was slipping unless it was caused by low fluid then the tranny is beginning to tank. It might go another year or so but I wouldn't take it on long trips. If it's slipping then the tranny has been heat stressed most likely (not your fault, it happens) as slipping is usually started by the tranny consistently getting too hot. In fact overheating causes most tranny problems.
    • Abomonog, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1How many miles does the car have on it? If it's about 100 to 150k and the tranny fluid has no shavings in it but looks burnt (brown or yellow) change it out. It will ensure the tranny outlasts the engine. (But $120 is way overpriced, he is just basically doing an oil change to your tranny.) If there is 200k on the car or shaving seen on the stick don't touch the fluid at all. Don't listen to ringo78 and drop the pan unless you know there is a clear shot to the entire pan.
      Many cars have to have their exhaust or suspension removed to get to the tranny pan making your job very expensive. If you can find the equipment you can suck the tranny fluid out the filler hole and replace it yourself. Thats how most shops do it unless the tranny has a drain plug. And that tranny filter is usually just a double layered screen.
      • ringo78, on 05/07/2008, -0/+1it is a toyota transmission? How hard is it going to be to drop? If the fluid is burnt you are being stupid to not drop it to drain the fluid and change the filter. Suck the fluid out with a hose all you want. I like to take care of my vehicles.
  • gr3yn3t, on 05/07/2008, -1/+3"Why is everything in quotes?""
    • dhughes, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2 I imagined it was a mechanic who wanted to remain anonymous so he was interviewed with his face obscured, the results are direct quotes. If his mechanic buddies knew it was him they would kill him! He broke the auto mechanics code (which can only be read with a special tool).
  • boostfiend, on 05/07/2008, -0/+4I've run an independent German repair shop for five years. Good tips but just to clarify #12, you should drain and refill your transmission fluid, a complete flush would be unnecessary. Most manufacturers even incorporate a filter to be changed with this type of service regardless of wether they recommend it or not. I've seen a lot of problems with automatic transmissions at higher mileage when a drain and refill service was never performed. It doesn't need to be often, maybe every 50,000 miles depending on the type of vehicle.
    • Hosalabad, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2It's as little as 30k miles in domestics.
  • bytor4232, on 05/07/2008, -1/+2Well, actually, I'm sure some dealerships do the whole "certified" scam, but the dealership I go to when I need a ride actually does a ton of testing on cars that are certified. One time we wanted to buy a $13,000 SUV, but he wouldn't sell it to us because the numbers were off on the transmission check. He wound up selling us a $9,000 minivan instead, and we haven't had a single problem with it in the five years we've owned it.
    Eventually we did see that SUV on the wholesale lot marked down to 10k. We got a chuckle out of that for some odd reason.
  • pencilneck, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5If you feel like you need to apply those rules to your mechanic, then you need to find another mechanic, simple as that. But there were 2 very important tips left out:

    1 - ask to be shown the failure on the car prior to work being performed. Now some items like failed CV boots or a cracked coolant flange can be shown, but something like fretting of a terminal end may not be something you can just show. At the shop I work at, we have customers out in the shop daily showing them first hand what we found. We have found that when a customer can be shown the problem first hand, they almost always do the repairs.

    2 - Ask to talk to the tech who will be working on the car! When you go to the doctor, you don't tell the receptionist behind the desk what all your problems are... you go into detail with the doctor. Do the same for your car. Most service writers are not techs and may not know what questions to ask to help figure out what is going on. I, as a tech, like getting info first hand info from the customer.
  • KingGorilla, on 05/07/2008, -0/+5Ask about speed holes. They make the car go faster
    • warragul, on 05/07/2008, -0/+0I shaved 5 thou off the fan belt and chrome-plated the distributor cap. It flies!
  • SillyRabbits, on 05/07/2008, -2/+1The problem is that there just aren't many talented people that want to work on cars today. Anybody that is a really good mechanic can make six-figures tuning, maintaining, and building exotic/performance/specialty cars. To put it another way, why deal with customers that are complaining about the cost of a $50 repair when there is a large customer base that will throw you the keys of their 57' corvette and say "just make sure it's fixed right - I don't care what it costs". I know which one I'd rather do. For mechanics that aren't doing that, you have to wonder why not.
    • drakelarson, on 05/07/2008, -0/+2There aren't many talented people working on cars? That's pretty objective. Pretty much everyone i know (including me) that works on cars does it because it's their passion. and they ARE talented.
      • SillyRabbits, on 05/07/2008, -1/+1No, what I was trying to say is that many people with a high technical aptitude are no longer going on to become mechanics - like they did years ago. They now go into other fields (e.g. engineering, IT, etc.). As a result, there is a severe shortage of skilled people to fill mechanic positions. However, the positions still have to be filled so the 'average' skill level of people filling those positions has definitely decreased over the years. Excellent mechanics are now few and far between and can really command a premium in the market. Most recognize this so they take the interesting/fun/high-paying positions and you won't find them at the local Pep-Boys changing alternators - at least not for very long.
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